Vibrant Gujarat!

Prologue

The RE thunderbird 350 that I had been using for so many years was close to cross 1 Lakh Kms on its odo during my previous year ‘Tour de Konkan’. That’s when I had decided to give it retirement and get onto a new dominant machine for my upcoming escapades. The new RE Standard 500 was newly hurled then and I made a booking for it in Mangalore. I opted in Mangalore with the main reason being fast delivery and I was on my new machine little before the waiting period RE guys had given me while booking. This new machine was madly powerful and was literally flying with just a little throttle.

I had made up my mind much before the new bike came that first big mission I would be doing in this powerful beast is to smell the Kushbu of GUJARAT. Yes! I had seen enough photos of endless White Rann, gigantic Asiatic Lion, the pretty Wild Ass, countless Flamingos, the historic temples of Dwarka and Somnath and what not. Gujarat had much to be seen and I had to make sure I cover everything with appropriate plan. With these things knocking my mind, I had less time in hand as the initial part of 2014 was full of routine office work, few bike trips to Udupi and weekend small rides. I knew time is passing by and I have to plan things properly but was unable to make up time for it L. In the last part of third quarter, came an opportunity to visit my parent company in Denmark for a week along with few of my colleagues. I took off for a week more and explored few more places in Nordic region. Back home, I made sure I make a firm plan for the trip with approved 3 weeks of leaves in hand.

When everything was flowing smooth, thundering news stuck my ears which took my sleep away. My father had to undergo Bypass surgery ASAP. I instantly forgot about Gujarat and nothing came in front of me except making sure everything goes well. Since surgery was suggested to be done in Bangalore and I was his only son living here in Bangalore, I had a major role to play. He was operated on 20th November 2014 and the 4 hour surgery went on well J. But that was not an end. I had to make sure to get him checked with surgeon 2-3 times after surgery before he went back to Udupi on 20th December 2014. All this process scattered my Gujarat plan which was planned kick off from 13th December 2014.

My company was friendly enough to accept my request of postponing my leaves by 2 weeks, quickly made all the required arrangements for the trip, and changed the plan to cover Gujarat anti clockwise due to peak tourist season. At last, it was 25th December 2014 when entire world was greeting everyone with ‘Merry Christmas!’, I escaped from IT capital to ‘Breathe in a bit of Gujarat!!!’

Day-1 | 25-December-2014 | Bangalore-Pune | 917 Kms | 917 Kms

The highest I had covered in a day in my Thunderbird was Bangalore-Ratnagiri riding 777 Kms. I was sure with this new 500cc beast, I can do much more than that but I had to make sure I have enough time in pocket for any uncertainty.

Woke up at 2:50 after a peaceful 5 hours sleep. Took hot water bath, sipped a glass of milk and loaded the saddle bag on bike making sure house is properly locked. It was exactly 3:30 AM when I started my bike and escaped the sleeping city with the help of Rind road. I was sure of the bone freezing weather in NH and hence had worn a rain jacket over my riding jacket which helped me a lot against freezing wind. With the slow music on ears, smooth NH-4, bike sailing at 80’s, I was enjoying the moment to the most. Unlike my previous rides, I was not feeling sleepy which surprised me for a while. High beam lights from trucks and buses were hitting my eyes directly but dint want to break as I had a long distance to cover before the day ends. Crossed Tumkur in some time and things got slightly better as the traffic got reduced by a noticeable margin. I was lost in myself so much that I could not make out when I crossed Sira and Hiriyur. While on the move, I saw a bunch of wind mills at a distance and soon I realized I was in Chitradurga. But as I had enough energy left in me, continued ahead and gave my first break between Chitradurga and Davanagere covering 240 Kms in 190 mins. ‘Man! This bike is actually flying….’ I said to myself and moved ahead after a short butt break and photo break.

Good Morning....

Now with the more power, I knew I had to stop more for refueling the bike L. Refilled till its neck and munched another long stretch before I broke off for breakfast in a Rajasthani Dhaba just 45 Kms before Hubli. I was quite surprised by the distance I had covered. I had covered close to 400 Kms and it was still 10:45 AM. ‘Man! What a power you have’ I said patting my bikes tank and moved ahead.

Breakfast time!

Crossed Hubli and continued the journey riding between dry lands, took a break after Belgaum with few photo breaks in between. Road was at its best with no bad patches at all.

Sailing near Belgaum!

After a quick rest under shades, continued my days ride and stopped for lunch crossing Tavandi ghat. It was just past 2:00 PM and I was just few Kms before I could cross state border. Soon after a munched a stretch, I was riding in NH-4 with all MH registration plates and that when I realized I was out of Karnataka J.

Maharastra welcomes the Beast!

Traffic nearing Kolhapur was pathetic with bikes sneaking from all direction and added to that was patched up NH-4 which was quite bumpy for bikes L. I thought this traffic might get over once I cross Kolhapur but No! It was following me indeed. I could not take this torture anymore and decided to take it cool and hence gave a tea break at a road side restaurant where a big bunch of school kids were having their food. As soon as I got down from bike, they all started seeing me like never before. With everyone’s eyes over me, I was quite embarrassed and scooted out soon after a tea. It was about 5:20 PM when I stopped for refilling my bike in Satara. It was second time I was refilling for the day and that’s when I confirmed, ‘Covering quick distance comes with a high costJ’. With still 120 odd Kms for the day, continued slowly without wearing my helmet as I was quite irritated with new Balaclava pressing my ears. While I was slowing down near a toll, suddenly a KA bike came from opposite direction and,

“Yellinda Bandri sir neevu? (Where did you come from sir?)” Uttered a middle aged man switching off his bikes engine.

“Bangalore” I said with no reaction as I wanted to move ahead ASAP.

“Naavu Mumbai nage business madtivi sir. Uttuti marata madtivi. Nammooru Davanagere sir! (I do dry dates business in Mumbai. My native is Davanagere sir!)” He said without me asking anything about him.

“Oh! Hauda. Business chennagi agutta alli? (Oh is it! How is your business doing there?)” I asked just to make him feel am not ignoring him.

After a couple of chit chats, I bid bye to him and continued towards Pune.

“Yes! Yes! Yes!....” I was fully excited soon after my trip odo read 778 Kms. It was an accomplishment for me to beat my previous highest Kms in a day which was 777 Kms.

Crossed Khambatki tunnel and Ghat after which stopped for a Sunset photo.

Sunset pose in NH-4

With another 70 odd Kms to Pune, wore the helmet and ripped for a last leg. Crossed New Katraj tunnel and I was in another mega city Pune. It was about 7:00 PM by then and first thing I did was calling back home to inform parents about my safe arrival to Pune. Mom was shocked to listen that I had done 900 odd Kms since morning.

New Katraj Tunnel....

She warned me to ride safe and be extra cautious and I obliged without uttering a word. Soon after that called Ravi and he instructed me to come to Jagtap Dairy Chowk crossing Hinjewadi Bridge. Reached the spot and he too arrived with his wife Priyanka in some time in their Suzuki access 125.

“Namaskara Dhani! (Hi boss!)” I said extending my hand for a shake.

“Namaskara ye! Yencha ittund ride? Pinkan, mai kai poora bene unda? (Hi! How was the ride? Do you have pain in ass or body?)”

“Ijjiye! Nama full fresh ittela. (No! I am full fresh even now)” I said with a Colgate smile J.

I followed him to a small tea shop which is one of Ravi’s favorite tea spot. Sipped hot tea chit chatting about the days ride, Dad’s surgery etc and reached his house which was hardly a Km. Unloaded the bike, got fresh with hot water bath and had delicious dinner prepared by Priyanka. We were soon joined by Ajith a friend of Ravi.

“Ice cream tinkana? (Let’s have ice cream?)” Ravi questioned with full excitement.

With no mood to take my bike out again, I got back on Ravi in his Access and had a delicious Mastani with butter scotch flavor in Sujata Mastani.

Got back home and crashed in few seconds after a back and butt burning ride and with another long day ahead for tomorrow. But before closing my eye shutter, I was on cloud nine as I had munched 917 Kms which was my highest in a day.

Day-2 | 26-December-2014 | Pune-Vadodara | 582 Kms | 1499 Kms

Mobile was sincere in waking me up on scheduled time and even I did not dare it to snooze it as I had another big day today. Got fresh and was getting ready to move on and that’s when Ravi came out with his eyes half closed and stretching his hands and greeted ‘Good Morning!’. Priyanka followed her husband in getting up and soon I loaded my bike after a heavy breakfast. Bid bye to the couple and assured them that I would stay for an extra day during my journey back home.

Reaching NH-4 from his house was quite familiar to me and was on NH-4 without missing any route. Since I had to fill fuel, stopped at Shell fuel station and said ‘Full tank’ to the lady on service who had covered herself fully in warm clothes.

“Yeh kaha ka registration hain? Hubli ka hain kya?” She said expressing her curiosity.

“Nahi Udupi ka hain! Mangalore ke paas….” I said with a gentle smile.

“Aap kaha se nikle ho?” Holding onto the same curiosity.

“Bangalore so nikla hoon! Abhi Gujarat jana hain! Goomne” I replied answering her probable next questions J.

“Hamara saab bhi jate hain! Unke paas bhi bullet hain. Who bhi mahine bhar ghumte hain….” She said with full joy.

Sliding through foggy Pune

Bid bye to her and moved ahead crossing Lonavala and Khandala taking frequent photo breaks. As soon as I got down from Ghat, I could make the difference in climate and it was quite humid.

Khandala Ghat as seen from NH-4

Crossed Panvel bypass and rode ahead with the help of localities directions. From my Rajasthan trip which I did 4 years back, I knew that I will have to cross a huge Ghat section before I touch Thane. Soon I was in front of the mighty hill crossing Mumbra Toll.

Crossing ghats before Thane....

It took some time to reach Thane riding along with traffic and missed the right which I was supposed to take and I realized it soon after spotting tall residential buildings.

Residential buildings crossing Thane

“Bhayya! Ghodbundar?” I asked a taxi driver resting under shades beside the road leading to dream city.

“Arre! Who piche rehgaya! Aapko wapas jana padega. Aap ek kaam karo. Who bridge ke niche se U turn lelo aur waha pooch lena….” He said and went back to his nap.

After couple of enquiries, finally I was in Ghodbundar where I had a slight shock for the day. I had assumed Surat to be just 140 Kms from Ghodbundar but the board at the junction said Surat à 265 Kms. ‘Gosh! Still close to 400 Kms and it is already 12:15 PM’ Banged my head and moved on taking NH-8 leading to Gujarat which had irritating traffic. 

Still a long way L

The traffic let me go freely only after crossing a toll after Vasai. I guess lot of people commute to Mumbai from Vasai on a daily basis.

It was close to 1:00 PM when I stopped for a food break in Vittal Kamath. Had Misal Pav as part of lunch and got back on saddle without worsening the time management.

My favorite choice in Maharastra J

I was rushing up myself with the intension of not to ride at dark. Made up my mind to cover as much as possible in this stretch and rode nonstop for 200 Kms reaching Surat where I had to fill my tank L.

Bye bye Maharastra!

Green patch towards Surat

The 200 Kms ride to Surat was absolutely smooth with green vista on either side of the road and butter smooth road. However, I was quite exasperated with the amount of traffic I had to deal with after Vapi. I was wondering ‘What job these people do which requires them to be on road at this time?’ Well! There could be plenty of reasons I convinced myself and rode ahead only to stop for a tea break after Surat bypass from where Vadodara was about 100 odd Kms.

Wide Toll booths in Gujarat

Tea break before the last leg....

After quick tea, boarded the bike for last leg of the day and reached Vadodara by pass by 7:00 PM once again dealing with mad traffic. I was wondering that during my previous ride on this road, it was so blissful riding here and now it is quite opposite of that L. As usual, called up home to inform them that I have reached safely and followed to that was a call to my hotel where I had booked my room. Called up hotel asking for directions and all that I could understand is I should reach Railway station from where the hotel is close by. But thankfully he sent me hotel address in SMS. While entering the city, saw a black Pulsar with ‘KA-14’ registration over it. Soon,

“You are from Karnataka?” I asked while on the move for which the guy in bike nodded his head.

“Kannada barutta? (Do you know Kannada?)” I asked again for which he nodded his head again.

After a bit of talks, we both put our bikes aside and introduced each others.

He said he is Vishrudh from Thirtalli near Shimoga working in Siemens here.

“Hegide Baroda Bangalore go compare madidre? (How is Baroda compared to Bangalore?)” I asked knowing his expected answer.

“Much better here….” He said confidently.

Our talk continued for a while with me briefing about my ride, my previous escapades, my native, work etc and then he helped me in getting the directions to Railway station.

“Illi munde horde first circle sigutte. Adu Sussen circle. Alli left togoli. Swalpa munde hodmele right togondu straight hogi. Ondu flyover cross madtira. Aa area Lal Bhag. Ade road nalli munde hogi BSNL office hatra left togondu straight hodre railway station barutte. Railway station pakka dalli left togondre nimma hotel sigutte! (Go straight and you get Sussen circle first. Take left and then right after a while. Then go straight. You will cross a flyover. That locality is Lal Bhag. Go further straight and take a left near BSNL office. Then go straight and you will get railway station. Take left there and you can spot your hotel!)”

He told he would have taken me to his house but he had some work outside before heading home. I thanked him for his kind words and helping me with the route and moved ahead exchanging the numbers. Reached the hotel in about 30 mins and was little scared as the bike had to be parked in public parking and my hotel was in 9th floor of a vintage edifice. Unloaded the luggage and went to the reception using antique lift. Receptionist assured me of my bike safety as he told CCTV will be guarding my bike. Got into the room which was much satisfying for my requirement, got fresh and checked with my friend Deejey who hails from Vadodara while having dinner in nearby place. He loaded me with all the required information and what special I can look out for with respect to eating. Crashed in bed with the thought of ‘Here I begin Gujarat Saga….’

Day-3 | 27-December-2014 | Vadodara-Pavagad-Champaner-Vadodara | 164 Kms | 1663 Kms

Vishrudh had suggested that I might get late if I happen to start late as there will be a lot of queue for cable car to reach the hill top in Pavagad. Hence I made sure I was out by 7:00 AM towards Pavagad after cleaning my bike from the design made by pigeons L. I knew that Pavagad lies on other side of NH-8 and hence got onto NH-8 and was looking for an exit to Pavagad.

“Bhayya, Golden bridge kaha hain?” I kept asking locals since I knew Golden bridge exit is what I should be taking to reach Pavagad.

Soon I was in Vadodara-Halol highway which was 4-lane smooth to sail. But bad part being the freezing weather. I had worn my mesh jacket without any inner layer. I was shivering extremely and wanted to take tea break couple of times but rode non-stop till Pavagad with the fear of being late. The route was extremely wonderful with countryside views all over. I could see that locals were warming themselves with fire at few junctions. Reached Champaner crossing Halol and enquired,

“Bhayya Pavagad kaise jaana hain?” With an auto driver who showed me the route unwillingly.

The Ghat road to Pavagad hill was too curvy and I enjoyed every part of climbing up the hill. But the road was only till mid of the hill and from there, I had to park my bike and take a cable car or walk all the way up. Parked my bike taking parking slip and went straight to the ticket counter for cable car.

“Ek ticket dena!” I said handing over 100/- RS Rs without waiting in line even for a minute.

He gave me ticket costing 98/- Rs and small poppins without asking if I am ok with it J. Cleared the security check and got into the small queue which got over in about 20 Mins. I had been in cable car quite a lot of times earlier and hence I was out of fear this time. The cable car took me to hilltop in 10 Mins and I was on top of gigantic Pavagad hill.

Cable Car working relentlessly

Soon after I started to walk in, I realized that I cannot spend much time here due to the cleanliness people have maintained L. But the views all around were fantastic with clear sky. With no intension to visit the temple, got myself busy clicking the views from hilltop. There was a lake beside the temple and I could see small shops on either side of the walk path selling devotional items, Bangles, costumes etc. Walked till the back side of the hill where there were few ancient temples. After capturing them all in my lens, got back to the cable car which bought me safely to the base of the hill.

Temple on hill top with lake beneth!

Can you see the devotees lined up there?

Colorful shops on the way

Mesmerizing views from the hill top

Obidient workers

I wish that was my home J

Ancient temples in Pavagad!

Grabbed Poha in the canteen as part of breakfast and was out being done with Pavagad. Deejay had also suggested visiting Champaner monuments and since the base of Pavagad hill is Champaner, decided to visit the monuments as I had plenty of time for the day.

Parked the bike in parking paying 10/- Rs and walked for few 100 Mtrs inside the fort wall to visit Saher-Ki-Masjid which was first on the list. The old man at ticket counter said it is better to get your vehicle if you have since few places are quite far. ‘Shit!’ I said and went back to parking to get my bike. Saher-Ki-Masjid was very nicely maintained and the monument was very attractive with two tall pillars in front.

Saher-Ki-Masjid

Inside Saher-Ki-Masjid

Exceptional carvings....

After done with this monument while walking out, a local came and advised me to visit few places and also helped me with the route. I thanked him for briefing me about the monuments and visited Three Cells which had nothing great in it. Next was Jami Masjid which was huge in size and build with remarkable architecture. The monument was neatly maintained and I came out after my share of clicks.

Jami Masjid

Inner view of Jami Masjid

The Two standing tall and firm....

Neatly maintained area....

Open roof!

Lake beside Jami Masjid!

After that visited Kevda Masjid and Nagina Masjid which was quite interior and had to deal with taking my bike in walk path with thick bushes all over and loose gravels on the path. The place was quite isolated which helped me in taking good photos without any tourist interference.

Kevda Masjid

First monument of Kevda Masjid

Bushy track to Nagina Masjid

Deserted Nagina Masjid

Came back to the main road and visited huge lake with mighty Pavagad at the back and partially demolished Bada Talab Ka Maqbara.

Bada Talab with Pavagad hill at back

Ruins of Bada Talab Ka Maqbara

Having done with all these bid bye to Pavagad and Champaner visiting Step well and Ek Minar Ki Masjid which came while exiting the town.

Step well

Ek Minar Ki Masjid 

Rode back to Golden Bridge having a cup of tea in a village mid way and reached Hotel Express Towers as per Deejay’s suggestion to grab best Gujarati Thali in town. But had to come out in no time looking at the long queue to book the slot L.

With the hope of Gujarati Thali still persisting in me, enquired with locals and they directed me to Sasumaa restaurant which served me delicious and exceptional Gujarati Thali. Soon as I sat in my chair, the servants filled my plate with verity of items and I was wondering if I can finish them all. The servants made sure they pour the item whichever I finish eating and this continued for quite a few times before I insisted them not to pour more on my plate. At last after a loaded stomach, came out paying 210 Rs and I realized I may not need anything else for the day in terms of food. I was so full and all credit goes to the servants.

Massive lunch at Sasuma!

Next in the list was to visit famous Laxmi Vilas Palace and reached the parking in just 15 Mins. Took an entry ticket paying 170/- Rs which included audio tour and played the tour with head phone over my ears. The audio guide described and explained about the past of this mammoth palace and I was amazed to know few facts like, it was one of the expensive palaces in the world of those days, it had 170 odd rooms just for 2 people, the construction took about 12 years to complete this palace. Came out of the palace to capture its beauty in my lens. Continued my audio tour inside the palace where photography was banned and it was very nice experience to explore this palace with every possible detail.

Tourists greeted by these sculptures!

Peocock's guarding the Palace

Side view of the beauty

Front view of the vibrant Laxmi Vilas Palace

A small hall inside Palace

I just loved it!

Side view of LVP

The 45 Mins audio guide was very enlightening and after going through it all and exploring the exceptional palace built by super rich Gaekwad’s, came out and headed to Fateh Singh Museum only to know that it will be closed soon. But just to make sure I try my best, enquired at the counter if I can visit it soon and come back but the guy at counter said it will be closed in another 10 Mins and not worth being so fast.

With nothing else to do for the day, came back to room and took a small nap before I headed out for dinner near Race Course Circle suggested by Deejay which had verity of street foods. Without jumping onto some random shop, gave a close visit to all the shops just to know the items they were preparing. Had few items including a small pizza and closed days account with the plan to move ahead tomorrow.

View from my room

Yummy Pizza for dinner

Day-4 | 28-December-2014 | Vadodara-Ahmadabad | 210 Kms | 1873 Kms

It was time to move ahead in this trip but not before sipping a cardamom tea at a place suggested by Deejay. Got fresh and directly to Suresh’s tea stall opposite to Friends Society.

“Ek chai dena bhayya!” I said to Suresh after parking my bike.

Then I told him that I am Deejay’s friend and there began our casual conversation. It went on for a while and I did not notice I had already sipped 2 glass of special tea. I must say that the tea was at its best. He had also prepared breakfast which had Bhajji and Poha. Thought for a while and decided to finish my breakfast here itself instead of looking for another place later on. After grabbing 2 plates of Poha, I settled the bill and bid bye to Suresh assuring him to visit on my way back and rode back to lodge. Checked out of lodge settling the bill and I was on my way to Ahmadabad by 9:45 AM.

Unlike my previous rides, I did not check with locals for the route since this time, I had my mobile which did the best job in suggesting me the route from source to destination J. Hence it solved my major problem but I had a minor issue using mobile. Whenever I had to check the direction, I had to stop my bike, remove gloves, check my mobile and go ahead. It was quite a task but no regrets.

I was under the impression that Vadodara Ahmadabad road will be smooth 2-Lane road from my previous visits but this time I was completely wrong. 4-Lane was under construction due to which I had to take numerous diversions. It was a painful task that I had to slow down for diversion just when I was about to take off L. It took about 3 hours to reach Ahmadabad which was just 110 Kms from Vadodara. Traffic and road construction had messed up my plans for the day.

“Bhayya! Navrangpura kaise jaana hain?” I asked to a traffic cop guarding at Sardar Patel ring road. I was pretty frustrated with diversions I had taken and time wasted on it and hence did not have patience to use my mobile GPS.

“Aapko Padli hoke jaana padega. Aap yaha se seeda jao. Aur waha poochlena….” He said and got back to his work of stopping bikes to check the documents.

From there, for about every 500 Mtrs, I was enquiring ‘Paldi?’ and everyone said ‘Seeda….’. Finally one auto driver gave me the answer I was waiting for.

“Yeh Padli hain! Aapko kaha jaana hain?”

“Navrangpura” I said taking a deep breath.

Once in Navrangpura, reached Hotel Kushboo where I had booked my room for the day. The room was very comfy for the amount I had paid and it was very next to busy road with lot of branded showrooms. With the time running much faster than me, got fresh quickly and set out to Adalaj Step Well which was on my way to Gandhinagar Akshardham temple.

After negotiating with narrow streets of village, parked my bike and got inside mighty step well. Adalaj Step Well was built with few floors of steps which lead to the well surrounded by steps. I wanted to spend some time but noisy tourist crowd made me walk out quickly after my share of photos.

Dark inner view of Adalaj Step well

Yes! It was quite lengthy too

Open roof for rain water harvesting?

The Step well locked with fencing!

It was quite deep from where I clicked this

The lengthy Adalaj Step well

Adalaj Step well from outside

Next was Akshardham Temple in Gandhinagar Sector 20. Akshardham was not in my blueprint but KP suggested me to visit it without fail. He and his wife had done Gujarat trip a week before on bike and I got quite a lot of useful information from him for the trip.

Entry to Gandhinagar reminded me of Chandigarh. It welcomed me with wide open roads and big circles instead of traffic signals. It was another planned city and hence I hardly stopped my bike at any junction. Parked the bike in Akshardham paid parking and got into the queue to deposit my belongings. Next was to get into queue to enter the temple complex and tourist crowd was at its peak L. After waiting for a while, I was inside the temple complex passing the security check.

“Laser show ke liye ticket kaha se lena hain?” I asked the security soon after getting inside.

I was bit relaxed once I got my ticket as I was concerned if the tickets were sold out looking at the crowd. The show was supposed to start at 7:00 PM and I had plenty of time in hand. The huge campus had everything required for the tourists like food court, children play area, shopping center, museum, exhibition etc. Walked up to the main temple complex which looked quite similar to Akshardham in Delhi. Got into the temple and saw a huge idol of Swamy Narayan. Took a quick round inside the temple and next was to visit the exhibitions numbering from 1 to 5. I had about 2.5 hours in hand before Laser show begins and I was hurrying up a little to make sure I do not get late. The exhibition was mainly about the Neelkanth, his life and was demonstrated with small models. Am sure kids over there were enjoying to the core. The last two exhibitions had a small movie being played for about 20 Mins. After done with exhibition, I had little time before the Laser show and I managed to grab Pav Bhaji in food court as I was hungry to the core due to avoiding my lunch in an effort to make up with time.

The amphitheatre meant for Laser show was packed with tourists and the show began soon after I settled down. The show was very inspiring and wonderful with the help of latest technology. The story of the show was about a small little boy named Nachiketh and his vision to be faithful in life without any fear which ultimately lead to he being happy in life. After the laser show I had tough time in reaching back to lodge as I had not worn jacket and it was freezing cold L. Once in room, parked my bike on road side once again about which guy in reception assured nothing would happen and I closed my days account after packing my bag and being excited about experiencing Little Rann tomorrow J.

Day-5 | 29-December-2014 | Ahmadabad-Maliya | 305 Kms | 2178 Kms

Woke up a little before my alarm rang might be due to the excitement to experience Rann I assumed. Started my day sipping a cardamom tea opposite to the lodge and quit Ahmadabad while the city was still being dominated by fog. The agenda for the day was to visit Modhera Sun Temple and then head to Little Rann and finally Dholavira before the day ends. Getting out of Gujarat capital was not any big deal as I had my mobile GPS. The road to Modhera was smooth but with a lot of truck traffic. It was a State Highway till Mehsana and hence I was on 4-Lane smoothly sailing towards my destination.

“Pandra rupai….” A youth said handing me a slip at the toll.

“Bike ko bhi toll dena hain kya?” I said with little suspicion.

He came close to me and showed me the receipt in which it was written clearly saying the slip is for 2-Wheeler vehicles. Handed him the amount and moved ahead wondering how come they are charging that too on SH. 

Riding towards Mehsana

Took Mehsana bypass road and reached Modhera sun temple after seeking help from locals.

Parked the bike along with the load over it and paid the parking fee where the guy assured me of my baggage being safe. I had no change to take the entry ticket and hence bought some chocolates at a nearby stall so that I get change of 5/- Rs to take entry ticket.

Painted Storks having gala time on the way

Walked few meters and the brilliant Sun Temple was standing steady in front of a small step well. Once in Archaeological site, my camera got busy clicking the ancient temple from every possible angle. There were 2 main temple complexes one behind the other and it took about 45 Mins to explore everything in detail. On my way back to parking, gave a quick visit Museum which was within the temple complex. It had nothing worth spending time for and hence got back to parking and had a plate of Methi Bhajji as part of my breakfast at about 11:30 AM.

“Kaha se aayo ho aap?” A middle aged neatly dressed man questioned me while I was getting ready to move on.

“Bangalore se….” I said looking at his huge family who were standing behind.

“Bangalore se? Kitne log hain?” He fired again with everyone’s eyes wide open.

“Akela….”

“Kab nikle?” He continued with no intension to let me go.

“Pachees tareek ko nikla hoon” I said wearing my helmet.

After a short conversation about my trip, bid bye to Modhera and continued towards Becharaji in a smooth 2-Lane SH7.

First view of Sun Temple

Steps with carving in between!

Gorgeous Step well infront of Sun Temple

Sun Temple looks complete with Step well infront of it

Closer view of Sun Temple

Ruins all over

There must have been a monument before and now its only ruins

Beautiful carvings

Side view of Sun Temple

What an aptness

Vista around was pretty much raw with villages at frequent distances. Since I was unaware of fuel stations ahead, thought to fill the tank whenever I would encounter one. With the excitement of exploring Little Rann, I was enjoying every bit of my ride with melodious music on my ears J. Reached tiny simple town Becharaji and filled my bike tank also checked air pressure in tires.

“Aap Shimoga ke ho?” Asked a local guy who was present in puncture shop next to fuel station.

“Nahi! Bangalore ka.” I replied keeping an eye on the air being filled on bike tires.

“Bangalore se yaha tak agaye? Kitne din laga aane main?”

“Pachees tareek to nikla hoon Bangalore se! Yaha se Rann kaise jaana hain?” I asked him answering his curiosity.

“Aapko Patdi hoke jaana padega. Raasta acha hain! Koi baat nahin!” He replied with pleasant smile.

The rural Gujarat I pass through

Continued my voyage riding in rural part of Gujarat and reached Dasada taking my own sweet time witnessing the beauty of rural Gujarat. Once in Dasada, enquired about getting onto Rann with locals and they suggested going to Bajana which was about 30 odd Kms. Reached Bajana by 1:30 PM and rode straight to forest office to check the procedure to enter Little Rann. The inner part of me was very excited as I would be witnessing the magnificent Rann and famous Wild Ass’s in some time.

Little Rann forest office

The forest office was quite isolated with hardly any human being around. After taking a round to the office, saw a middle aged man and enquired,

“Bhayya! Rann kaise jaana hain?”

“Kud ki gaadi hain ya safari pe jaana hain?” He asked with a question mark expression on his face.

“Apni gaadi hain! Bullet hain mere paas….” I said eagerly waiting to enter.

He replied that one cannot take bike to Rann as the chances of getting stuck and getting lost are more. He declined even after a couple of pleading request from my side. Disappointed me to the core, asked him if I can meet the forest officer thinking I would request to the best possible way.

He said to get inside the office and vanished somewhere. Meanwhile, another lady officer came and repeated the same thing again declining my humble request. With no intension to leave the hope, I contacted another officer by name Vipul,

“Sir! Rann jasakte hain? Bike main?” I requested pointing towards my bike which had same thirst as me to enter Rann.

“Bike allowed nahi hain bhai. Humko order hain! Bike nahin jasakta….” He said politely.

“Sir please! Bangalore se aaya hoon sir! Rann dekne ke liye….” I requested again.

“Main samaj sakta hoon bhai mere. Par hame bhi tho jawab dena hoga uper. Aur gaadi bhi keechad main pas jata hain….” He said with the utmost patience he had.

With not willing to leave the place, I was just waiting for him to get little free as he was busy signing some papers. Meanwhile an old man came in white Wagon-R and started filling the form to enter Rann. Vipul sir spoke to him in Gujarati and after a while said you can go with them. I just wanted to hug Vipul for being so kind to me J. The old man said he has no issues in taking me but it will be a while when he comes back since he has to show flamingoes to his grand kids. I obliged without any concern. But to make sure they realize I need to move ahead, I just said,

“Kareeb char baje ke paas aa sakte hain na? Mujhe aaj Dholavira jaana hain. Aur raat hone se pehle mujhe sahi salamat pahuch na hain….”

“Aaramse pahuch sakte ho. Dholavira ka raasta acha hain. Are akele ho. Acha gaadi hain. Toh kis baat ki tension tuje? Apne zindagi ka raja ho. Phir kyon pareshan ho? Agar bahut der hua toh hum mere hi kamre me so jaana….” Vipul said patting my back.

I thanked him for his kind words and making sure I get to experience Little Rann and got into Wagon-R which had uncle, aunty and their 2 grand kids.

Uncle said it was his 3rd visit to Little Rann and he came to show Wild Ass and Flamingoes to his grand kids as he had promised them some time back. Kids were quite notorious and soon got very curious on my camera as I took it out. After few minutes of driving in tarmac, we got down into muddy track from where the Rann journey began and I was on cloud nine. The first view of Rann was very appealing to the eyes with vast barren landscape till my eyes could see.

The first view of LRK which looks like lands end JJJ

There were plenty of routes from where our car would go but uncle knew the proper route from where we can spot Wild Ass and flamingoes. Rann was pretty dry and uncle showed me the white stones on road side and said they are the only route marks. If you are lost, then it is very difficult to find the route back.

“Uncle! Aapko raasta pata hain na?” I asked just to make sure he knows where he was going.

“Shanti rak tu thoda….” He constantly fired this over his wife for every 5 Mins. Was wondering what she might be saying for him to tell this dialogue as a prayer every 5 Mins.

When we moved a little ahead, I spotted a bunch of Cranes easily roaming around. I request uncle to stop the car and went little close to capture them.

First encounter with Common Cranes!

Got back to car and went little further and suddenly uncle screamed saying ‘Gudkar, Gudkar, Gudkar….’. I started scanning outside on my left only to find a big bunch of Wild Ass curiously observing our car getting close to them. Uncle instructed kids not to make sound as they are very shy animals and will run away. I got down from car and slowly moved towards them and captured fabulous snaps of Wild Ass using my telephoto lens.

There you are finally.... JJJJ

Wild Ass's showing off their Asses

So many of them having fun time

The wastness of Little Rann

Got back on car and next was Flamingos spotting in the lake bed. I personally felt Flamingoes are more shy creatures than Wild Ass since they were moving away in spite of we maintaining a good distance. After photographing them to the maximum possible closeness, uncle took us to another lake bed where Flamingoes count was in few thousands. Yes! They were so huge in head count. With the hope of seizing them little close, we all settled down under a shade with patience. Kids started playing against their elders warning and this made birds to maintain good distance L. I was damn hungry since I was surviving with only a plate of Methi Bhajji since morning. Aunty had bought some snack and I had a little of them without even asking their permit. After spending some time, we got back on car and straight to forest office.

“Sir aapka naam?” I asked uncle while getting down.

“Narender bhai….” He said cleaning his specks and smiling to me.

“Shukriya sir. Thanks a lot….” I said and waved the little kids.

“Kaisa raha Rann?” Vipul asked as I was moving towards him.

Flamingoes in their land

Solo explorer?

The track leading to lake bed

White salty patches in lake bed

Surprise visitors like us!!!!

Roaming around freely....

Common Crane family in search of food

Dried Rann

Broken patchy land in lake bed

Ground level view of LRK

Flamingoes in bulk

They flew off as we went little close to them J

Its gorgeous to simply watch them like this....

Scary track in LRK

I thanked him once again for his effort in making sure I get to see Rann.

“Arre! Itna door se aaya hain. Kuch toh karna tha….” He said with a smile.

It was around 4:30 PM and I quickly geared up and moved ahead asking route with Vipul.

After riding for about 10 Kms, got into Ahmadabad-Bhuj 4-Lane national highway where I cruised to the max. I knew Dholavira was impossible for the day but wanted to get as close as possible before dark. It was about 6:30 PM when I reached Maliya covering 100 Kms in 70 Mins. As it was almost dark, settled in Navjeevan lodge beside NH. After getting fresh, had tummy food till my neck and had a small chitchat with care taker of the lodge after which I crashed in bed with the hope of covering Dholavira and reaching Bhuj by tomorrow evening.

Day-6 | 30-December-2014 | Maliya-Dholavira-Bhuj | 452 Kms | 2630 Kms

It was still dark when I started my days account. Bid bye to the care taker after a quick hot water bath and was on NH-8A leading to Bhuj by 7:15 AM as it was still dark by then since sun rise was yet to happen. Initial few Kms till Samkhiyali was little bumpy track with patch ups along with lot of truck traffic but it passed through massive Rann. 

Salt production unit in Rann

Beautiful Sunrise along NH

Took right at Samkhiyali and was on suave NH-15 towards Radhanpur. The climate was too cold and I had worn just a T-shirt inside my mesh jacket. Damn! I was not at all prepared for this weather L. My journey in NH-15 lasted only till Chitrod after which I was on single lane rural track towards Rapar and then Balasar.

The vista around was filled with thick bushes all around and was crossing through typical Indian villages where all old aged ones were taking sun bath in groups chit chatting about all the happenings in world  J. Reached Rapar and took a fuel break.

“Dholavira ka raasta yahi hain na?” I asked while paying the money for fuel.

“Ha! Yahi raasta hain….”

“Raasta kaisa hain?” I wanted to check the road conditions.

“Achha hain…. Koi dikkat nahi” He replied and I moved on thanking him without wasting much of my time since I had a long day ahead.

The narrow bushy track made sure I could not cross beyond 70 Kms/Hr but I was not regretting as I was enjoying the core part of rural Gujarat. Added to that were little cute birds crossing the road every now and then. Hence I had to pay lot of attention towards the road. Crossed Balasar and saw a board saying ‘Dholavira Metropolis of Harappan Civilization à XX Kms’.

Welcome to Harappan era....

I was getting more and more excited as I munched on miles ahead and in no time, I was hailed by 2-Lane arrow straight road with white barren land till my eyes could see. ‘Oh My God! Where have I reached? Heaven?’ I was asking myself frequently as I was in such a wonderful piece on earth. Yes! I was on a road that connects main land to Khadir Bet with Great Rann Lake on either side. But might be due to lack of rain, the land was completely dry with full of salt deposits. But what a view I must say. Parked my bike and got my camera out to click every angle of place. It was my first encounter with White Rann and I was filled in joy to the core. Got down from road and walked till the salt deposit only to take selfie using timer in my camera. After a close observation on the white layer, confirmed that it was salt all over and wondering how naturally gifted this place was.

Boeing 777 landing could be done here 

Yes yes! It is salt all over here

Magnificient view around!

After spending some quality time clicking snaps, moved ahead towards Dholavira crossing small villages. Just before Dholavira, I was stopped at a BSF check post. The Jawan came nearby and said,

“Kaha se aaye ho?” Having a close look on my bike.

“Bangalore sir….” I said removing my helmet.

“Yavag hortri sir neevu? (When did you start sir?)” He asked in Kannada fully smiling.

“25th sir….” I replied with equal excitement to meet Kannada guy and shaking his hand.

“Oh hauda .Nan hesaru Ashok sir. Naavu Haveri inda sir…. (Oh okie! Myself Ashok sir. I am from Haveri….)” He said and offered me water.

I thanked them for kind hospitality and moved ahead to Dholavira. Parked my bike in Toran guest house just before Harappan site and ordered Poha and Alu Parantha to fill the monster residing in my stomach. I knew I may not be able to find appropriate lunch and hence grabbed breakfast till my neck and got directly to Harappan Metropolis. Parked my bike under shade along with saddle bags and got ready to explore the mega Harappan Township. The site had huge tank for water storage and 2 medium sized tanks to the left of the township. I spent about an hour exploring everything and clicking everything possible. I could also see the Great Rann at a far distance from Harappan site.

ASI office in Dholavira

Deep water tank in left of Metropolis

How it must have been during their functional era

Arial view of Harappan legacy

Stone blocks all over

The famous sign board Harappans used

It must a house or something?

Distant view of the site

On my way back to the parking, met a family from Hyderabad who was on Gujarat tour and I shared my journey in brief with them. The head of the family expressed his love to RE and said he has booked Desert Storm. He said he loves biking a lot but due to family he is not able to enjoy his biking. I bid bye and gave a quick visit to Museum before moving on towards BOP Karni. Road to BOP Karni of 9 Kms was more like off track but easily manageable. I hardly found any human being en-route and reached BOP Karni after dealing with few skiddy patches. Took my bike to the last possible point behind the Karni temple and a guard from BSF post screamed towards me. I thought I need to take their permit and went close to him.

“Kaha ja rahe ho? Rann me utarna mana hain….” He said staring at my bike.

“Nahi sir! Rann me nahi leke javunga. Bas vaha tak jaake photo keechna hain bike ka….” I said showing him the place where I would park my bike to take photos.

Got back to the place after his approval and gave my camera full work.

As I was busy clicking Great Rann with my partner in foreground, suddenly a voice came,

“You want to take your photo with the bike?” A guy screamed from behind the temple.

I nodded my head after which he sent a school kid to take my snap and I thanked him for taking my snaps as I wanted the combo photo badly J.

The mighty poser

The adorable beast glancing at Rann

It is white all over

After spending some time watching the magnificent Rann in front of my eyes, went back to the BSF camp where I filled my water bottle and straight back to Dholavira after giving a quick visit to Fossil Park. In Fossil Park, I got down to the Rann and it was breath taking feeling to stand in it experience the vastness of nature. But there wasn’t anything great to me with respect to Fossil Park and got back on saddle with the hope of reaching Bhuj before I switched on bikes head lamp.

Fossil Park next to Great Rann

That was fossil few million years back....

You will end up in border if you walk straight here

Unexpected sighting of Nilgai

It was already past 2:00 PM and I still had about 240 Kms before my day ends. Therefore without wasting much of my precious time, started towards Chitrod. It was the same track I had rode in the morning and hence did not stop anywhere and was riding at decent pace. After few Kms from Rapar, suddenly a small deer crossed the rode just few Mtrs before me and I was shocked to see it from nowhere and before even I could realize it was a deer, it had vanished into bushes. Damn! I need to be too attentive I said and rode cautiously reaching Chitrod and after that it was 4-Lane NH where I ripped till Bhachau. Took a snack break since I had skipped my lunch and grabbed Dahi Vada and 2 plates of Sev Usal. While I was gearing up, another bunch of villages got curious and flooded the same set of questions regarding my trip, where do I come from etc etc.

As suggested by the local, I took right in Bhachau to directly reach Bhuj instead of reaching Gandhidham and then Bhuj. Initial 20 Kms from Bhachau towards Bhuj was very bad with full of patch ups and I had to cut down a lot on my speed. Added to that was mad traffic of tourists overflowing towards Bhuj and since it was dark, I was riding without visor which made sure my eyes accumulate good amount of dustL. By around 7:15 PM, I entered Bhuj and reached my lodge easily with the help of GPS.

As soon as I parked my bike, couple of room service guys came out looking at my gear up and loaded bike. I knew I had to answer them once again and after answering their curious questions, got into my room making an entry in the lodge register. Luckily, hot water was available and hence had bath, grabbed quick dinner and crashed after successfully making up for yesterdays delay.

Day-7 | 31-December-2014 | Bhuj-India Bridge-Kala Dungar-White Desert-Bhuj | 314 Kms | 2944 Kms

‘Today will be a special day’ I said before even I detached myself from bed. The reason was I would be witnessing India Bridge and White Rann which was one of the highlights of my Gujarat Trip. The cozy bed delayed my departure towards today’s excursion. For some reason, I knew that I would not be getting any breakfast mid way and hence hunt began to grab morning bite before I leave the dusty city. After venturing in for a while, finally ended up with Fafda’s in a local shop with Jalebi. A typical Gujarati breakfast did not taste well for my South Indian tongue J.

Fafda! Commonly available Gujarati breakfast!

Without wasting much of my precious time, took off towards India Bridge. Landscape was too dry and barren with no human habitation at all. However, tourist traffic was moderate and that’s when I realized I may have to deal with traffic going ahead. My mesh jacket was absolutely of no use for the cold weather I was riding through. I was literally shivering from inside but didn’t want to stop since I knew the climatic conditions would be similar throughout the day. The road was smooth enough to maintain decent pace and reached Bhirandiara after few photo breaks.

Here I go....

Landscape en-route

Arrow straight road towards India Bridge

“Bhayya! Chai dena ek….” I said confiscating my helmet and gloves.

Had another cup of tea and moved ahead after handing him 12/- Rs. Soon after Bhirandiara, there was junction where they had put up a board saying ‘Rann Utsav ←’. Rann Utsav and White Desert was on my way back as per the plan and moved ahead straight to India Bridge.

“Yellinda Bandri sir neevu? (Where did you come from sir?)” A Jawan on duty asked before India Bridge.

Without speaking a word, got down from bike, removed my helmet and thanked him first and said,

“Bangalore sir” Smiling J.

“KA number plate nodi gottaytu sir neevu kannada davaru anta…. (Looking at KA number plate, realized you know Kannada sir….)” He said showcasing all his teeth to me.

After few more chit chats, I asked him if I can go beyond India Bridge. He said to check with higher officer at other end and also said,

“Bridge aa kade innobba idanri Belgaum nava. Iliyaz anta. Avan heltan nodi sir…. (There is another guy named Iliyaz from Belgaum guarding at other end of the bridge. He will tell you about it….)”

Thanked him and moved ahead to other end of the bridge and parked the bike under a tree. There was already couple of tourist vehicles waiting for their luck to move ahead without permit. There were also few who had valid permit to visit the border area and were waiting to make an entry.

“Sir, neevu Iliyaz avara? (Sir, are you Iliyaz?)” I asked the Jawan guarding the gate.

He nodded his head with an expression of being at homeland J. After a brief discussion about my trip, I asked him about whom to contact to move ahead. Iliyaz pointed to his higher officer who was busy speaking to other tourists. Meanwhile had a general conversation with Iliyaz about how bad the border situation is in Gujarat with respect to conflicts and he said it isn’t that way here. He was happy that it is peaceful here J.

“Sir, Aage thoda ja sakhe hain? Please sir! Akela aaya hoon….” I requested Patil sir who was in charge of the bridge.

Sir looked at my bike and asked the same set of generic questions about my ride.

“Waise toh hum kisi ko jaane nahi dete! Beed hone se pehle jaake aana padega…. Jyada waqt rukna nahi Sift Dharamshala tak jaake aana….” Sir agreed with a gentle smile and strict warning.

That’s when I got goose bumps and I was over excited. Quickly dropped all my gadgets at the counter and rode straight towards Dharamshala which was about 12 Kms from India Bridge. After riding between the bushes for initial 1-2 Kms, I was welcomed by gigantic Rann and it continued all the way till War Memorial in Dharamshala. War Memorial was very peaceful with beautiful view of Rann all over. After bowing my head to the real hero’s, went to another check post nearby only to hear strict ‘NO’ for my request of moving ahead towards border. Had water and briefed BSF Jawans about my trip as they got curious about looking at my bike. Headed back convincing myself ‘Nothing to regret as I got to get beyond iconic India Bridge which was very memorable experience for me’.

Came back to India Bridge, thanked Patil sir and moved towards Kala Dungar collecting my gadgets. 

Iconic India Bridge

Mindblowing Rann all over....

Kala Dungar hill as seen near India Bridge

Satisfaction of conquering Rann

Reached Kala Dungar negotiating through narrow curves and tourist vehicles plying recklessly.

“Gaadi vaha laga do….” Security screamed from a distance as I was looking for a place to park the beast.

After parking, went straightaway to Bhojanalaya which was being served from the temple administration for all the visitors. The menu was very simple with Rice, Sambar, sweet and butter milk. But it was unlimited and what else can be better for me I thought with a wicked smile J. After burping heavily for 2-3 times, moved towards view point which was few Mtrs behind the temple.

“Aap journalist ho????....” A jawan asked as I was focusing to capture photos.

“Nahi! Kyon?” I asked with a big question mark expression.

“Yuhi pucha bus. Aap kaha ke ho?”

“Bangalore. Aap?”

“Jammu….” He said as he bid bye.

I got busy clicking the mesmerizing views of Great Rann but the bad part being it was completely dried up L. I wanted to see the blue lake and capture it in my lens but it was all white around. With nothing else in my hand, packed up from the place and got back to main road towards Bhirandiara from where I had to take permit to get into White Desert which was one of the trip highlights.

Rocky landscape en-route Kala Dungar

Walk path towards temple

Kala Dungar distant view

Walking towards view point

Breath taking view of Great Rann

Hill that accompanies Great Rann!

Spectacular view

Reaching Bhirandiara got into queue after quickly filling a small form to get the permit. Got the permit paying 135/- Rs and I was towards Dhordo by 5:00 PM. The road was smooth with tourist traffic at its peak. Like me, everyone was racing against time to reach White Desert before Sun Set.

White Desert! Here I come....

“Permit dikao….” Guards requested with a smile with closely looking at my bike.

Moved ahead describing about my trip in short to the guards and the tourist crowd was too much as Rann Utsav was running in full glory. Lot of vehicles was standing in queue to move ahead and stalls were on either side with colorful local handicrafts, eating joints etc.

“Sir, togoli permit…. (Sir, take the permit….)” I said smiling towards Manjunath, a BSF Jawan.

“Nimge hege gottaytu, naanu Kannada davanu anta? (How did you come to know I know Kannada?)” He got curious to know as he took my permit.

“Sir, nimma hesaru nodidre gottagutte neevu Kannada davaru anta…. (Sir, your name tells you are Kannadiga….)” I replied and moved ahead as vehicles behind me started honking to the max.

Parked my bike and walked towards a gate leading to White Desert.

Shops at Rann Utsav

Some cultural activity beside Rann Utsav

The gate beyond which mind blowing White Desert resides

As I crossed the gate, I was welcomed by mega and mesmerizing White Desert with thick layer of salt all over till my eyes can see. It was just 5:45 PM and I still had lot of time in hand before Sun Set. Walked ahead quickly as I was unable to get clear picture due to the flooded tourists. The concrete walk path was about 1.5 Kms in length and I covered it quickly with few photo breaks in between. Requested a family head to take my photo with White Desert at back and soon came to know that he was from Basaveshwar Nagar in Bangalore. It was pleasant speaking to him in Kannada and meanwhile Sun was planning to close his account for the day. ‘Finally, after years of dreaming, at last I am here today!!!!’ I constantly said to myself patting on my back. As I moved ahead, tourist crowed gradually reduced helping me get clear photos without any obstacles. It was one of the best moments to watch Sun closing his account and hiding behind the White Desert. Spent some time just relaxing and looking closely into White Desert and wondering what a God gifted land it must to be so rich in salt. I was really falling short of words to express what it meant for me to be here standing in White Desert.

White Desert flooded with tourists!

Yeah! It is crystal salt

Can you see anything apart from white?

At last, I am out of the crowd to capture clean photos....

Am I in Moon?

Breath taking Sunset JJJ

What a joyful moment to watch him sinking in with White in foreground!

After it got dark, got back to parking and started back to Bhirandiara. It was pitch dark with not even a single street light to help me L. But there were enough tourist traffic to accompany me all the way. Reached Bhirandiara literally shivering and parked my bike beside a tea shop.

“Bhaiyya, Kuch garam Chai milega????” I asked rubbing my hands.

“Chai bhi milega our Maav bhi….”

Made a quick decision to try Maav and it was all worth it. I have never tasted something like that. It was simply hot and delicious. It was a sweet made of milk which gave a perfect blend to the icy climate. In addition, had Tea too as it was freezing cold and I had about 45 Kms to Bhuj. 

Delicious Maav!

Thanked him for suggesting it and rode ahead to Bhuj again with tourist traffic. Riding in that smooth road with pitch darkness was very haunting experience. Reached Bhuj, had quick dinner in Hotel Viraam close to my lodge and closed the account for the day.

Day-8 | 01-January-2015 | Bhuj-Lakhpat-Narayan Sarovar-Mandvi-Bhuj | 424 Kms | 3368 Kms

I knew it was a very long day for me and hence I gave a quick start for the day. From my previous days struggle for finding good breakfast, I had learnt that Poha is the only suitable option for me as breakfast. Hence started my search for it and found it right in front of my lodge.

“Bhaiyya ek Poha dena” I ordered a breakfast.

After grabbing Poha and Tepla along with Tea, I was out towards Lakhpat! The west most part of India. Finding the route was an easy task for me now as I had GPS which had exceeded my expectation in doing its duty. Once I was out of city, the deadly freezing climate started effecting me very badly. My mesh jacket was of no use and to make the matters worse, I had left my helmet in room L. ‘Damn shit!’. I said to myself and moved ahead slowly at 70’s there by delaying my days plan. At few points, it was so cold that I found it difficult to apply clutch and front break. Took a break for natures call as I was unable to take the cold wind hitting me badly.

Yes! It passes through here and I am passing through it....

With no option and not willing to head back at any cost, moved ahead and the route was absolutely isolated from human crowd. Final few Kms before Lakhpat was just horrible with heavy winds taking toll over me. I realized I had reached Lakhpat when I saw the fort at a distance and was thanking myself that I can break from bike for a while J.

Entered the fort and it was very silent with no humans around. After thinking for a while on safety issues, decided to go further and that’s when I saw a red Swift approaching from the fort with MH registration. I realized it must be some tourist and stopped it to enquire about safety in getting inside. The only person in the car who was a lady said it is all safe and one can see the Rann meeting the Kreek. 

Lakhpat! Here I come....

I was quite relished from her words and moved ahead with confidence. Soon saw a cyclist coming and again stopped him.

“So you on a cycle trip? Great.... When did you start and from where?” I asked curiously.

“Yeah! I started from Bhuj on 25th and did White Desert, India Bridge. Now taking this route…. You?” He said with a pleasant smile.

“I too started on 25th from Bangalore and rode all the way till here. From here will head to Saurastra…”

“Oh! Even I am from Bangalore….” He said shaking hands.

That’s when our conversation from Kannada began and continued for a while. 

Rohit from Bangalore!

After bidding bye to Rohit and wishing him good luck for his journey ahead, got into the other end of the fort and climbed the walls only to say ‘Man! This is spectacular…. How gorgeous it is….’ I could see mind blowing mega size Kori Kreek all over. After few photos got down and moved to other corner of the fort where there were 2 BSF guards obediently guarding the post.

Inside Lakhpat Fort!

That's the lands end!

Kori Kreek

“Yeh kaha se leke aaye bullet ko?” One of the BSF dude completely covered with shawls and scarf’s asked pointing to my bike.

“Bangalore sir…. Yaha thand bahut hain na?” I said rubbing my hands.

“Arre abhi sardi kaha shuru hua hain???” He said laughing at my state.

“Yaha Pakistan le log nahi aate hain kya?” I asked the usual curious question.

“Arre yaha se kaise aayenge? Yeh Kreek hain. Koi aayega toh beech main andar gus jayega. Yeh Kreek main mitti masboot nahi hota hain…. Isi liye Kreek main koi nahin jate hain….”

What a moment to witness this being present on the spot

After few photos of Kori Kreek, bid bye to them and moved ahead towards Koteshwar. Road to Koteshwar was completely isolated with human traffic and only thing I could see was BOP notice boards every few Kms. The road was quite narrow but it was pleasent riding between the raw nature. Reached Koteshwar crossing Narayan Sarovar at around 2:00 PM and gave back the work to my camera. I was feeling very proud to be at west most tip of India.

Welcome to Narayan Sarovar....

Koteshwar Temple entrance....

West most tip of India JJJ

Koteshwar Temple from back!

Fishing boats taking a break....

As I was getting late, got back on saddle without wasting much of my time and took the route towards Mandvi. GPS said it is NH-8A Extn and hence I was under that impression that it will be a smooth 2-Lane highway to cruise on. But against my wish, the road was completely narrow with a width of exactly one bus and the track was completely abandoned which filled a little of fear in me. Added to that was me skipping the lunch and was damn hungry. But looking at the surroundings, I could make out that I will not find any eating joints here. Thats when I decided to cover 140 Kms to Mandvi as soon as possible and as I was speeding towards Mandvi, I saw a fully grown up Jackle standing in middle of the road and resisting to move inspite of me honking few times. Dead scared me, was thinking ‘Should be take a U-turn and head back?’. That’s when the dude gave me the way but was aggressively looking at me while I crossed. With every part of my body filled with fear, started ripping without giving a second thought even though the road was not smooth.

After covering about 70 Kms, I could see some small villages but did not have guts to stop and move ahead crossing huge Ultra Tech Cement factory. 

One of the very few wind mills on the way....

Finally reached Mandvi riding 145 Kms in 130 Mins and enquired the route to wind mill beach with locals. Parked the bike, and got into the beach which was much below my expectation. Out of the many wind mills, hardly one was working and the crowd was moderate. Hungry me had a cup of sweet corns and got back on wheels towards Vijay Vilas Palace. 

Tourists in wind mill beach!

Wind mills facing the beach....

KP had told that the palace is worth visiting and it will close by Sun Set and hence rushed to the place which was about 8 Kms behind the township. After paying 80/- Rs as entry ticket, gave full work to my camera and clicked the small and sweet palace from all angles. But I did not feel like spending much time there due to tourist mob and decided to head back to Bhuj after filling my appetite.

Vijay Vilas Palace from outside....

Quite colorful and charming palace!!!!

One of the rooms in Palace

Loved the timing!

Looks like Rajasthani architecture!

View from Palace terrace

It was around 6:40 PM when I left Vijay Vilas Palace and grabbed Veg Noodles and rode towards Bhuj in dark negotiating the traffic throughout the ride. Reached lodge, got fresh, had Gujarati Thali and crashed thinking to try for border permit tomorrow J.

Day-9 | 02-January-2015 | In Bhuj | 40 Kms | 3408 Kms

The main agenda for the day was to make sure I get border permit from BSF head quarters. Set out towards BSF office in Mundra port road after grabbing 2 plates of Poha and 3-4 Jalebi’s J.

“Sir, yah ape border jaane ka permit kaha pe milta hain?” I asked the guard at BSF campus gate.

After thinking for a while, he suggested me to check in other gate and I fired the same question at other gate. They said me to go to BSF HQ in airport ring road. Since I had already searched a while for this campus, I confirmed with them again if they are denoting to correct office and moved in search of that BSF office.

“Kya chahi ye?” BSF jawan at gate stopped me while noting down my bike number.

After I said I want to get the border permit, he let me in taking my signature in his register.

“Sir, border permit kaha pe milta hain?” I asked few jawan’s who were on duty at the reception.

“Kitne log hain? Kab chahiye?” One of the guard asked while others continued chit chatting.

“Akela hoon sir. Aaj ya kal ke liye chahiye” I said crossing my fingers.

“Aaj ke liye???? Nahi ho jayega bhai. Aap jao. Kum se kum paanch din lagega….”

“Toh phir kal ke liye dedo na sir. Please itna door se aaya hoon. Border deke bina jaane ka mann nahi karta hain….” I had to get bit emotional in an effort to get the singed permit.

But they were very straight forward in rejecting my requests without giving a thought. I insisted them to make me meet their higher officer so that I can plead him and they said even higher officer would tell you the same and it’s better you head back. After few more efforts finally got a chance to meet higher officer Dharmendar Yadav who again said it’s not at possible for tomorrow as they have pending applications to be cleared from last week. I pleaded him again briefing about my trip so far and my willingness to visit the border.

“Arre bhai. Itna zid kyon karte ho? Aisa kya hain border main joh hame nahi dikta hain????” An officer sitting next to Dharmendar said with a quirky smile.

“Sir! Jis tarah logo ko bada shahar dekna ka mann karta hain, mujhe border dekna ka mann karta hain sir.”

After delivering few more emotional dialogues, finally Dharmandar sir said,

“Bhai tu ek kaam kar. Ek application like dena. Uske saat apna ID proof aur gaadi ka RC Xerox laga ke dena. Main try karta hoon. Guarantee nahi de sakta, par try zaroor karoonga….”

“Teek hain sir. Abhi detha hoon. Thank you sir….” I came out with a broad smile.

Went out to get Xerox of DL and RC and came back in no time. Shivaji, a BSF guard at reception helped me to write a hand written application form and submitted to Dharmendar sir along with required documents.

“Teek hain! Ab tum shaam ko kareeb saat bhaje aana.” He said and kept my application on his table.

“Kya hua? Application le liya????” Jawan’s at reception asked curiously.

I said they accepted it and told me to come at 7:00 PM in the evening.

“Toh samjo thumara kaam ho gaya. Ab tum be fikar hoke jaana aur shaam ko aana….” They said expressing their happiness for me J.

It was just 12:30 PM and I still had more than half a day. Whether was too dry and cold, which made me not willing to go far for the day. After thinking for a while, decided to check local sights in Bhuj and Prag Mahal and Moti Mahal which was much below with respect to my expectations of Palace’s.

Prag Mahal which looked like church at first glance

Clock tower in Prag Mahal

Walking inside the Mahal

Huge hanging lamp in Mahal

Royal meeting room

Vintage collection inside Mahal

View of Bhuj city from Clock tower!

Next was Ramkund Talav for which I had to check with locals for directions. After enquiring with few, reached the spot and I was fully turned off by the state of its maintenance.

Ramkund Talav

Came out without second thought and next in the list was Chattardi’s which again was below my expectations with broken Chatri’s all over L.

Chatri's ruins

Incomplete or partially demolished Chatri

The only neatly looking monument

With lot more time in hand, gave visit to Swamy Narayan Temple which was very neatly maintained in between dusty city. As I went in, security guard stopped me saying it’s closed and I should come at 3:30 PM. Took a quick round from outside clicking carved marbles and got back to parking with hungry stomach.

Entrance of Swamy Narayan temple

Pretty sculptures in the temple

Huge Swamy Narayan Temple

Marble carvings depicting the mythological stories

Just loved the capture with Gold and White color!

Jai ho Swamy Narayan....

After filling my stomach in Hotel Viraam, got back to lodge and took a pleasurable nap till 5:30 PM.

“Damn! Is it 5:30 PM so soon???” I said resisting myself to get out from bed.

But the thought of border permit made me jump out of bed and was out to have a cup of cardamom tea and then to BSF HQ.

When I reached the HQ, there was another young group eagerly waiting and I confirmed that even they were waiting for permit looking at their oddity. Got in and enquired with Shivaji about my application status.

“Aapka poora ho gaya hain. Bus bade saab ka sign chahiye. Who meeting pe gaye hain….” He said and scooted away inside in a hurry.

“Thank god. Yes! Finally I will visit the border tomorrow….” I said to myself and was too happy.

For a moment thought of giving a Jappi to Shivaji but controlled myself realizing that the permit is not in my hand still J. With nothing else to do, got onto a casual conversation with Jawans at reception who were firing questions about Bangalore and my ride. Their pace of firing questions was more than the pace in which they would fire bullets on enemies I thought. Mean while came another sir who got to know about my bike trip and he advised,

“Arre, buy a Harley and go in that man…. You will enjoy it….” Patting my back.

“Sir, will surely buy with your blessings….”

After waiting for about an hour, the higher officer came back from meeting and in 15 Mins, my permit was issued.

“Ja bhai. Aaram se goom ke aana. Koi jaldi nahi. Poora dek ke aana. Teek hain????” Guards at reception said with a broad smile on their face.

I walked out thanking every single person whom I met in the morning and as I moved towards parking, I jumped out of joy screaming ‘Yes yes yes yes….’.

‘Boy o boy! Did I actually get the permit? Am I visiting the border tomorrow?’ Questions were flooding in my mind but I did not bother to answer them. Came back to room taking around 10 Xerox copies of the permit and since it was my last evening in Bhuj, I tried my hands in local chats. Had Dabeli, Kadak and Pav Bhaji before getting into bed and dreaming of riding till the tip of Indian side and seeing the border fencing.

Special item Kadak from  Bhuj!

Day-10 | 03-January-2015 | Bhuj-BOP 1111-Bhuj-Morbi | 531 Kms | 3939 Kms

It was an auspicious day in my life and I was going to see the third border between India and Pakistan. I had seen Wagah Border in Punjab and Tanot Border in Rajathan and this was my third visit to Border. And the excitement in me was as if I was going to see the border for the first time J. As this was my last day in Bhuj and I had planned to move ahead of Bhuj by evening, I knew it was a very long day for me. Hence got out of city by 7:00 AM with a pack of cup cakes and 2 Apple’s as part of my food.

I was well aware of the road condition since it was the same India Bridge route and rode to Bhirandiara in a bone freezing wether.

“Bhayya, Chai dena ek…..” I said parking my bike and rubbing my hands badly.

One cup of tea was not sufficient to generate enough heat in me and topped up with another cup before I moved ahead. As it was early morning that I was on this route, I could not find any tourist crowd and it was absolutely bliss to ride here on straight road witnessing the glimpse of magnificient Rann.

Reached starting point of India Bridge and showed permit copy to Jawan who was on duty. Meanwhile two more bikes came along and he let them too after enquiring a bit along with them.

“Listen! Do you guys have the permit to get beyond India Bridge?” I asked one of them with the intestion of giving them vital information on how to go till war memorial without permit.

“No! We just came in with rented bike from Bhuj. We don’t know much about it….” He replied while on wheels.

“Then do one thing! There is a sir named Patil, who is incharge of India Bridge. Very nice and friendly person he is. Just go to him and requst him to the max. He will let you guys till Dharamshala. It’s a war memorial worth a visit from where you can see how big the Rann is….”

Reached other end of the Bridge and Patil sir was on duty talking to Jawans.

“Sir, Border jane ka permit…..” I said handing over a copy of permit to Patil sir.

“Aap, do din pehle aaye the na. Aaj phir se?” He said recognizing my face.

“Haan sir. Border dekna tha. Isi liye kal HQ se permit leke aaj aaya hoon…..” I said proudly.

He took original copy of the permit and said Jawans to make an entry and deposit all my gadgets with them which I did obidiently. Meanwhile the 4 guys requested Patil sir to let them till war memorial and sir agreed without much of talks. Happy guys thanked me and that’s when I came to know one of them hails from Mysore and rest are from Tamil Nadu all are working in Chennai.

With everything in line, I moved ahead after the Jawan from Belgaum whom I had met last time screamed,

“Aaram aagi hog banri…. (Go and enjoy….)”

I was feeling absolutely lucky and delighted to have this day in my life and icing on the cake was doing BOP 1111 on my bike J. Next check post was in dharamshala and the Jawans there recognized me as well. After quickly completing the process of submitting permit copy and making and entry, they opened the gate and I was let in. As the bikes speed increased, my heart beat increased at the same pace with every beat saying ‘This is awesome! This is icredible….’ I was sure that I am over excited and felt like dancing on the road but was scared as any misbehaviour would put me in trouble and also thought stopping in middle of the road would not be safe thing to do.

After about 3-4 Kms, came another check post and same procedure repeated with these Jawans amazed that I rode all the way from Bangalore and that too solo. One of the Jawan was very excited seeing Royal Enfield and I offered him to take it for a round but he rejected with a thanking expression. After breifing about my past rides to Himalayas, moved ahead and I was inside the raw Rann with nothing except the hi-tension electic wires running parallel to the road. It was a single lane decent road with few bumpy patches in between. But that did not bother to me as I was not rushing up my ride and there was no other vehicles on road to disturb me  J.  As I was enjoying my day and moment to the full, suddenly a bunch of Nilgai’s ran away from the road which was hiding behind the road side bushes. I stopped immediately with their sudden movement and watched them for a while as they were staring at me from a distance. That’s when I realized that I am not all alone here and wild Gujarat is there to escort me.

In middle of nowhere, a Jawan came out from a bush hearing my bikes sound and stopped me to check my permit and let me go ahead. After enjoying every bit of my ride, I reached Vighakot which is the last village on Indian side just before the border post. After enquiring with the nearby camp, reached BOP and was welcomed by a Jawan from Orissa. As soon as he came to know I have been riding all the way from Bangalore, he got very excited because of me riding from so long and his likes for Bangalore. Soon, he introduced me to his higher officer and the higher officer greeted me nicely shaking hands and said,

“Bike se itna door se aaye ho? Bhai, maan na padega aapko. Bahut risk hota hain na iss main?”

“Thank you sir. Risk toh har jagah hain na sir….” I said with a smile.

“Woh toh hain! Jab tak jeo, khul ke jeo. Baat sahi hain na?” He said bursting on laughter.

Soon after briefing about my trip, another officer took me to view point from where one could see the border fencing at about 100 Mtrs away. He explained me the border conditions in Gujarat and how peaceful it is on this side.

“Yeh fixed line border hain! Matlab India aur Pakistan dono desh iss border to mante hain. Isi liye yaha bahut shaant hain….”

He showed me a white pillar standing firm behind the gate and said its BOP 1111. It was really a life time memory watching those mighty fencing with white border pillar separating the two countries. I just wanted to watch it for long but the Tamilian Jawan was hurrying up to go back.

“Poora Gujarat main ek hi border gate hain joh apko dikraha hain. Flag meeting hum yahi pe karte hain…. Abhi kuch din pehle unka ek chota bacha raat ko rota hua aaya tha border paar kar ke. Humne usko leke aake, uska teek tarah se dekpal kar ke, flag meeting kar ke, de diya…. Vighakot  aur Islamkot judwa gaav hain. Partition ke baad, Vighakot hame mila aur Islamkot unko mila hain…. ”

“Tamil terima? (Do you know Tamil?)” I asked the Jawan while coming back.

“Terimu (Yes! I know)” He replied with a wide smile J.

After watching the fencing for some time inaudibly, got back to the camp where they had made an arrangement for a table with few chairs. They served hot tea along with buiscuits and spent some time chit chatting about their native places, what I do in Bangalore, my family, my passion for bike ride etc.

“Bangalore bahut badiya place hain sir. Public transport bahut acha hain. Poora shahar hara bara hain. Bahut park hain public ke liye….” The Jawan from Orrissa went on praising the IT capital and I was just praising in me to them for all that they are doing for our country and giving me an opportunity to make my day and gift me the life time reminiscence. After handing  over  them my visiting card and thanking them all, while I was about to go, another well built higher officer pitched in and he made out that I was on bike trip looking at my gear. When he came to know that I rode from Bangalore he was,

“That’s quite impressive man. How many days did you take? I took 3 days to reach Gujarat from Dehradun during my days….”

“Sir, I did Bangalore Pune 920 Kms on first day….” I said as his jaw dropped in shock.

I showed him my bullet parked at a distance and they said,

“Bahut damdaar gaadi hain bhai….”

I thanked for every memorable moment they gave me and geared up for return journey to Bhuj. Riding back on the same road was as exciting as if I was riding for the first time. Reached India Bridge with a glimpse of Wild Boars on the way.

Parked my bike and took the gadgets I had deposited in the counter and first thing I did was to hop onto cup cakes and apples I had bought. It was close to 1:00 PM and I had nothing except few cups of Tea from morning. Thanked Patil sir and quickly shared my experience of being to BOP 1111 to another moderately old person.

“Nim hatra matadi tumba kushi aaytu sir….. (It was pleasant talking to you sir….)” Jawan from Belgaum guarding gate said expressing his emotions while coming back. With a cup of Maav in Bhirandiara, reached Bhuj tanking up the fuel. It was already 4:00 PM by then and I still had a long way before I could end my day. Loaded my bike with luggage I had kept in luggage room as I had checked out in the morning itself, bid bye to lodge guys and was towards Morbi.

Morbi was about 170 Kms from Bhuj and I had to take same Maliya route. Plan was to reach Morbi before dark and hence ripped my bike as much as possible. Road after Bhachau was smooth 4-Lane NH and I could sustain decent pace. It was getting dark after Maliya and I had to ride with my visor open and could not take the dust that was getting into my eyes. ‘Man o man!’ It was pathetic and added to that was unexpected potholes all the way till Morbi.

Reached Morbi and called up the hotel I had booked and after their guidance and with the help of GPS, reached the lodge.

“Aap Bangalore se akele aaye hain? Kaam se aaye ho kya???” The lodge owners elder brother was hell bent on getting the answers as I was too tired to answer his queries.

Got freshened up and had yummy Gujarati Thali in a restaurant suggested by lodge owner and walked back to room. As I was getting into my room to crash,

“Arre, aap idhar aao. Mujhe baat karna hain aapse….” Once again lodge owners elder brother pitched in.

“Mujhe abhi tak dimaak main nahi gaya hain ki aap bullet main Bangalore se aaye hain….”

“Come idiot! I will take you to Bangalore as my pillion. You will realize when your ass will burst out” I replied in myself.

He continued his chit chat asking about places to visit in Bangalore, details about visiting Tirupati etc. After patiently answering his queries, he finally let me go and crashed after a life time memorable day.

Day-11 | 04-January-2015 | Morbi-Dwarka | 315 Kms | 4254 Kms

Woke up on time and the destination was one the most religious site of India! Dwarka. But before that I had planned to explore a little of Morbi and then Jamnagar on my way. Power played a hide and seek and it resulted in me taking cold water bath L.

“Yaha naastha kaha milega?” I asked a lodge owner sipping a tea offered by him.

He suggested me to go till the junction ahead of lodge but I came back finding nothing to eat. ‘I am too early for a grab’ I thought. Lodge owner offered that he would get breakfast and I choose,

“Do plate Poha leke aana bhayya….”

After waiting for a while chit chatting with his elder brother, he bought me 2 plates of Poha and a plate of Fafda. With a loaded stomach, planned to quickly visit Mani Mandir before I bid bye to dusty Morbi. As soon as I went to the parking gate crossing small slums, I was told that it is closed for renovation and no photography allowed. ‘Ok’ I said and got back to lodge and checked out towards Jamnagar in no time. As soon as I exited the city, I was welcomed by smooth SH-22 with moderate traffic. I was enjoying my ride with melodious music keeping my mind and heart engaged till Dhrol from where it was flat tarmac 4-Lane NH all the way till Jamnagar. Jamnagar welcomed me with high rise buildings and apartments and I was taken for a surprise with the developed look that it had. I was wondering what could be the reason for Jamnagar to have so much apartments in the city and how can it have so much habitats. With these questions roaming in my mind, reached Lakhota Palace and Museum after a quick butt break on the out skirts of city.

Lakhota Palace placed in between Lakhota lake was much against my expectation from the initial look of it from outside and to give it a try, I asked,

“Bhayya, yaha gaadi parking kaha hain?” To a local passerby for which he pointed to a public parking nearby.

That’s when I decided to skip it as I was dead against keeping my entire luggage in a public place without any security in between so much of crowd.

Lakhota Palace

Took the help of GPS and I was out of Jamnagar towards Dwarka by 2:00 PM. As I was riding at my own pace with lot of time in hand, I could feel that I am very close to the coast and was quite excited about it. 

Final 96 for the day!

After about 25 Kms from Jamnagar towards Dwarka, I was welcomed by huge and massive Reliance Township with their production unit. The campus extended to few Kms and that’s when I realized how Jamnagar has grown up so much with modernization and realized the reason for so many apartments in town. It was more like Reliance had completely conquered the area with Reliance logo available in every possible thing you see on road. It was even available on the barricade they had put in between the 4-Lane NH. Next came Essar Oil after Reliance. Their campus and manufacturing unit was nothing less compared to Reliance and with these 2 biggies in town, I concluded that Jamnagar is Industrial and Production hub of Gujarat.

Essar production unit....

But soon after Essar, the smooth road went astray and it was more like grating route with so much deep marks on road which had the capacity to take my bike to a side and loose my control. With this new mess on road, I was riding more cautiously to make sure nothing went wrong. Moreover, the crowd disappeared in no time and I was back onto the usual highway with no much habitation around.

The road condition worsened as I neared Dwarka and also was greeted by lot of wind mills.

Wind mills nearing Dwarka

Just the color combo....

Reached Dwarka by 5:00 PM and reached my lodge placed in dusty narrow street leading to the temple after a bit of roaming in gullies. 

Dwarka welcomes me!

“Bhai saab ek karma book kiya tha Krishna naam pe aaj ke liye….” I said removing my gloves and baraglava.

Room boy carried my luggage and got fresh in no time after paying 500/- Rs as advance for the room. In an effort to make sure I reach before the time limit, I had skipped my lunch and it was showing the result badly L. Hence I had to look out for food as a first thing but to my bad luck, no restaurants were open by then and all said,

“Saat bhaje ke baad….”

With no option running in mind, saw a Pani Puri stall nearby and hopped on it with 3 plates of Pani Puri. I assume the Pani Puri selling boy must have been in a shock seeing the way I was eating it.

My lunch in Dwarka

After a filled tummy, went to the temple premises to click the photos for memory as photography was banned inside. As I was focusing the camera,

“Oye! Kya kar rahe ho????” A guard on duty screamed in between the mad pilgrim crowd.

“Temple ka photo keech raha hoon….” I replied getting back to view finder.

“Kis ke liye????” I asked again.

“Apne liye” I said without looking at him again.

Meanwhile another guard came close and I explained him the reason why I wanted to click it and he let me after being convinced J.

Holy Dwarakeesh Temple

It was just 15 Mins past 6:00 PM and I quickly made up my mind to visit the beach which was close to the main road few Kms before Dwarka. All of a sudden, came a decision from inside that I should capture the Sun Set and that’s when I started riding recklessly towards the Okha Madhi Beach about 15 Kms before Dwarka.

Reached the spot by 6:50 PM just few Mins before Sun Set and guess what? It was pleasure witnessing and capturing one of the best Sun Set of my life. Sun sinking in was clearly visible without any obstacles of cloud. ‘What a moment! I loved it immensely….’ I said to myself heading back to temple town.

Peaceful Okha Madhi beach

Orangish view all over!

The clean Sunset I had seen till date

Sinking in quite fast

And there he goes....

Next in plan was to give quick visit to Dwarakish Temple and since camera was not allowed inside, I kept it in my room and walked to the temple. The initial impression of the temple was just like any other temple with devotees rushing from all directions to catch the glimpse of Lord Krishna.

“Jaldi darshan kiji ye. Abhi Aarti hoga….” A priest screamed and crowd got more aggressive this time pushing all over L.

With a great difficulty, somehow got into a queue from where I had a quick darshan. I got the darshan so quick that I was wondering if this was the actual Dwarakish temple which I had heard from years. As I had plenty of time in hand, decided to give second visit and got back on line. But this time, I was not lucky enough to come out soon as they had closed the curtain for Aarti. With nothing else to do, I was standing in line almost on the front side with just 2-3 devotees infront of me. Suddenly, a priest appeared and started chanting the Bhajan loudly,

“Arre Krishna Krishna bolo, Hare Krishna bolo…..” Clapping his hands and mouth full of Pan beeda.

“Shit! This guy will surely pour his Pan over me now” I thought and badly wanted to go back at the earliest but without any luck L.

The priest continued his Bhajan for about 10-15 Mins and all the way, I was just hiding behind devotees in front of me with a hand inside pocket to safeguard my wallet. After a while got a quick darshan and came out after watching the narrow and tall temple complex for a while. 

While coming out, I just overheard a guide telling 

“Char dham main ek dham Dwarka hain! Saat puri main ek puri Dwarka hain! Isi liye Dwarka bahut hi punya kshetra hain….”

Came out and had an unlimited Gujarati Thali in a nearby Bhojanalay and crashed for the day.

Day-12 | 05-January-2015 | Dwarka-Somnath | 323 Kms | 4577 Kms

As usual, woke up on schedule and had a nice tea opposite to my stay. Destination for the day was another religious sight Somnath about 250 odd Kms away on the coast. But before that, I had to visit Bet Dwarka which is a small island closeby. To get in there, I had to ride to Okha a small town from where one can catch a ferry to Bet Dwarka. As I had to checkout by 11:00 AM, I set out towards Okha early in the morning in the foggy freezing climate.

Morning rays kissing the misty Dwarka

Reached Okha and the first impression was very degrading with stinking smell all around and also locals had maintained the place in very dirty state. Rushed towards a ferry point and I was lucky enough to get one soon after I arrived.

Ferry took about 15 Mins to reach the island and it was loaded with local and tourist crowd. All the while in ferry, we were accompanied and entertained by massive bunch of Sea Gulls which were being fed by Ground Nuts that the tourists in ferry were throwing in ocean as a meal for the little pretty birds. With a few photos of those cute birds, I reached Bet Dwarka and the state of this place was nothing different from Okha. 

Sea Gulls accompanying us all the way

Main land as seen from Bet Dwarka

Ferries with colorful flags in holy island!

It was dirty with polythene being thrown all over, Pan being spit in every possible place and what not. I was just wondering the mindset of locals who keep such a holy place so filthy. With nothing much I can do about it, moved towards temple.

“Bhayya, Mandir kaise jaana hain?” I asked a local shopkeeper who was just setting up his shop for the day’s business.

Reached the temple complex and deposited the SLR and Mobile. Got into the temple after passing through the security check and this temple had less crowd cause of which I could do the darshan nicely without any hassles. But that was not all about Bet Dwarka. All the devotees like me were grouped together and taken to a corner of the temple complex by a priest of the temple. I felt suspicious and was sure this priest would try to get some bucks from all the devotees.

“Yaha aaye sabhi bhakto ko mera namaskar. Mandir ke taraf se aapko poora mandir ke baare main jaankari diya jayega. Yeh jaankari muft main diya jayega. Ek paisa bhi dena nahi hain aapko….” He started with his talks and I got confirmed that he would surely seek money from the group. 

As I was well prepared for their usual trick of asking money, thought to listen to the information he would give us.

“Yeh Bet Dwarka bhagwan Krishnaji ka punya stal hain. Yeh jo aapne bhagwan ki moortiya dekha hain, woh 4500 saal purana hain. Aaj joh Bet Dwarka aapne dekha hain, asal main Bet Dwarka usse bhi bahut bada hain. Lekin woh pani ke andar hain….” He continued with Pan full over his mouth. 

As I was running late, I gave his information a miss and got back to boarding point for the return journey after quickly grabbing a plate of Bhajji as part of morning feast. With a short wait, boarded the ferry and got back to main land and straight back to lodge tanking up the fuel. Loaded the bike and was out of Dwarka in no time. After initial few Kms of potholes on road, I was welcomed by smooth 2-Lane SH. With the less traffic on road, I was enjoying my ride accompanied by wind mills on one side and ocean on other.

River kissing the ocean

On my way, I also spotted a big bunch of Flamingoes and common cranes enjoying the weather to the full J.

Huge number of Cranes on the way....

With a small butt break, reached Porbandar by 2:00 PM and I had to visit Bapu’s house as per plan. Although I am not a fan of Gandhi, I thought I would not lose anything if I visit his house and hence reached Kirti Mandir in Kasturba road after a bit of jiggling with city traffic. Gandhiji’s house was neatly maintained with the collection of all his photos since childhood, his family’s photos and his days of fighting for freedom. 

Bapu looks notorious!

Kirti Mandir

There was a board put up saying ‘Birth place of Mahatma Gandhi’ to the left of his house entrance and it was marked with Swasthik symbol. Tourists were in line to get them clicked on this spot and I was keen to come out of tiny room.

The board says it all

And the dude was born here

Antique look of Kirti Mandir

After quickly exploring his house, was out of Porbandar towards Somnath. As I was just enduring with a plate of Bhajji’s since morning, my appetite was boycotting for food which I could not deny for long.

Had Gujarati Thali in a road side dhaba and just felt like taking a power nap under a shade. But as I had about 120 Kms to cover, I did not want to spend much time on road and hence got back on wheels towards Somnath. I just wanted to enjoy the ride throughout my day and hence I was maintaining a decent pace of about 70 Kms/Hr without rushing myself. 

Buttering road adjecent to ocean before Madhavpur

Final few Kms before reaching Veraval made me feel like I was riding in my home town with the coconut fields all around. Crossed Veraval and as I was checking my GPS for route, suddenly a car came from behind of stopped beside me.

“Hi, you on a bike trip from Karnataka?” I guy in his 30’s spoke scrolling down his car window.

“Yeah! Am from Bangalore and on a bike trip of Gujarat….” I said while looking at maps.

“Great! I am Chirag working in a MNC belonging to Veraval…. I am a great fan of Royal Enfield and planning to do Ladakh ride in it….” He started the conversation which I was not keen off.

After a couple of chit chats, he handed over his visiting card and helped me with route to Lilavati Guest house I had booked belonging to Somnath trust. After a quick procedure of check in process, I was handed over the keys of my room and as soon as I got in, got surprised by the comfortable room which I got for just 600/- Rs. The room was very spacious with balcony and was very cleanly maintained. As I was running out of time, quickly freshened up and straight to beach which was about 500 Mtrs away. Somnath beach was crowded with beach activities like camel ride etc with few chats shops on the shore. As it was close to sunset, I got myself ready with camera and was hoping to get another clear sunset like previous day but to my bad luck, clouds spoiled it L. 

Sunset in Somnath!

It isn't as clear as I witnessed in Dwarka

Soon after the sunset, without wasting much of a time, came back to room after a cup of tea and kept my gadgets in room to visit the temple.

First went to Shoe rack to keep my floaters but the guy at counter insisted I keep it outside,

“Ek hi hain na. Bahar rat dijiye saab. Koi dikkat nahi hain….” For which I nodded and hid my floaters behind a seating bench.

Quickly passed through the security check and got into a huge queue waiting to enter the temple complex. But thankfully the wait did not last long and I entered the temple with the hope of getting clear darshan just like yesterday in Dwarka. ‘Boy o boy! What crowd is this….’ I said to myself looking at the huge crowd struggling for darshan pushing everyone possible. Finally after a lot of struggle, I got to see the holy Aadi Jyothirlinga and soon gambolled out of mad rush chanting ‘Jay Somnath’ along with other devotees.

Next thing I had to do was to get a ticket for sound and light show which KP had insisted not to miss out. But I had to wait again for a while for that ticket which was being given inside temple complex itself. Got the ticket and was out of the temple in short time. As I had little time left for the sound and light show, thought to take a round of temple which was standing firm since age’s right next to the ocean. After spending a little time peacefully watching the ocean and heeding to its music, sound and light show began behind the temple where trust had made a seating arrangement like amphitheatre.

“Main Sagar, dharti ke iss punya kshetra ki unnati aur barbadi ko sadiyo se dekta aa raha hoon….” The audio began with lighting effects on the temple.

The show was mainly about the history of this holy place and how Moon god was cursed by his father-in-law Daksha Prajapati and how Moon God arrived in Prabhas Teerth and worshiped Lord Shiva after being advised from Brahma. Lord Shiva was pleased by Moon Gods worship towards him and relieved Moon god from the curse of darkness. Show also mentioned that Moon God had built the temple of Gold as part of his worship towards the first of 12 Aadi Jyothirlinga followed by Silver temple built by Ravana and Sandalwood temple built by Lord Krishna. The current 5th temple was built under the presence of Sardar Patel in 1951 after he visited this temple and saw the temple in ruined state it was in by then.

The 75 Mins sound and light show was quite impressive and informative. After the show, came out with a quick visit to gallery next to the show and had dinner in lodge itself which was served unlimited with delicious curries and crashed hoping to capture sunrise early morning tomorrow.

Good night!

Day-13 | 06-January-2015 | Somnath-Junagadh | 122 Kms | 4699 Kms

“Uper jaana mana hain saab….” A cleaning staff said while I was climbing steps towards terrace to capture sunrise.

I convinced him that I would come back in 10 Mins after clicking sunrise photos.

“Teek hain! Agar koi poochega toh mera naam mat batana….” He said continuing weeping the floor.

Good morning Somnath!

After quick snaps of sunrise with melodious chirping birds singing morning ringtone, got back to room and spent some time lying in bed doing nothing. As the day’s destination was Junagadh which was about 90 Kms away, I had plenty of time in my basket due to which I thought I would enjoy laziness for a while.

Hopped onto Poha in guest house and went to temple again to click photos from wherever possible for my memory. 

“Sir, vaha jaake photo keech sakte hain????” I asked a guard on duty near the entry gate.

“Jao. Lekin use aage mat jaana….” He said pointing to a barricade till where he allowed me to go to take photos.

Had my share of clicks and got back to room to get ready to move ahead.

Holy Somnath Temple!

“Check out? Aage kaha????” Guest house guy at reception asked with a smile.

After briefing him about my trip for the Nth time, took the same route to exit the city and was welcomed by smooth NH towards Junagadh. I was enjoying my ride with green Gujarat surrounding me but sopping hot sun was spoiling the fun of my ride. Thought to break for a while and took a tea break in a cozy dhaba which had nylon cot for me to relax. Had a quick nap before moving ahead with only 40 Kms left to go. Few Kms before district capital, I could see a huge mountain standing tall and firm and I was confident that it is the gigantic Mount Girnar.

Nearing Junagadh

Reached Hotel Shikar Palace where I had booked my budget room for the day and had tasty Veg Noodles in nearby Sagar restaurant.

“Yaha dekne ke liye kya kya hain nazdeek main????” I asked in reception of my lodge.

The person in charge handed over a tourist information sheet which had details about the sightseeing of Junagadh without even uttering a word.

“Kitna time lagega yeh sab dekne main?” I asked him again pointing to few places.

“Shaam tak pura dek kea a sakte ho….” He said and got busy with his news paper.

First in the list was Mahabat Maqbara opposite to district court and reached the spot after a bit of negotiating with narrow streets.

“Bhayya, yaha gaadi parking kaha hain?” I asked a lemon juice vender.

“Idhar hi laga do. Koi dikkat nahi hain….” He said squeezing lemon pointing to a footpath.

‘Damn! I cannot park my bike here in footpath’ I said and after a look around for parking place, ended up parking it inside district court compound.

Mahabat Maqbara was a nice monument but pathetically maintained L. Garbage thrown all over, dogs sleeping here and there, plants grown on monument made me come out of it without willing to spend much time. 

Mahabat Maqbara....

Sibling of Taj Mahal?

Next in the list was museum for which again I took the help of GPS and reached the spot riding through narrow streets.

“Bhayya, yaha museum kaha hain?” I asked a local passerby.

“Yahi pe tha. Lekin abhi naya jagah shift ho gaya hain jiske bare main mujhe pata nahin….” He replied and walked ahead without waiting to know if had anything else to ask for him.

Next was Mount Girnar and road towards it till a point from where I could get full view of the hill. 

Gigantic Mt Girnar

The two mighty ones!

This is the max I could zoom in my telephoto lens

I knew that the only way to reach top of the hill is by climbing about 10000 odd steps and it would take a full day. Hence took a U-turn and back to my next place which was Ashoka edicts. While parking my bike to get in, a little boy selling tender coconut said,

“Abhi band hain. Aap nahi ja sakte ho….”

“Kitna bhaje khulega?” I fired back assuming it is closed for some time.

“Char maheene tak band rahega. Uska chat gir gaya hain….” He said looking out for his customers.

‘What the heck! How casually this little boy says the roof is demolished. Is it the way things are being maintained here?’ I asked myself knowing that there will not be any answer to it.

The little boy continued that there is another stone beside the road where you can see Ashoka edicts and I went there with the hope to see that at least. On reaching the spot I got answer for my question I had few Mins earlier about the way things were being maintained here. It was just like any other normal rock lying beside the road with nothing being done to protect it.

Ashoka's edicts

After clicking few customary snaps, got back to city hoping to visit Upparkot fort on the way back. But the slums in front of the fort and the surroundings did not sound safe for me to venture inside the fort and hence gave it a miss.

With nothing else to do, came back to room by 4:30 PM and took a small siesta watching TV. With entire evening to be spent doing nothing, thought to taste some local chats and headed out to a nearby street to taste some delicious chats closing my eyes with respect to hygiene aspect. Also had tea and parcelled some Jalebi’s back to room and closed my days account quite early with full excitement of facing the King in his home if luck permits.

Day-14 | 07-January-2015 | Junagadh-Sasan Gir | 61 Kms | 4760 Kms

Today was another highlighted day of the trip as I would be seeing the Asiatic Lion depending on my luck. With nothing pending to be done in Junagadh and as I had planned to do 3:00 PM safari in Gir, I got myself loose and started my day with a cup of yummy tea just outside my stay. Packed my bag after a bath taking my own sweet time and grabbed my breakfast in lodge itself. Loaded the bike parked in the basement and started the bull only to hear a loud sound somewhere from engine and bike getting off. ‘What the heck is this?’ I said and saw if anything was wrong but found nothing to my eyes. Tried starting the bike but it refused to start in spite of several attempts and that’s when panic stuck in me. ‘Shit! I have a safari today and what if it is some major issue to be sorted out?’

Looking at my hard effort to start the bike, a young guy came in who said it might be the issue with Fuse or Spark Plug. But I knew it is not an issue with them as if that was the issue, then bike would not have made a loud sound before getting off. He said he works on bikes engine and even he tried to the best of his knowledge without any luck. With nothing running in my mind, called up Hotel Umang to inform that I would be little late to my schedule due to unexpected issue with the bike.

“Kya hua aapki bullet ko?”

“Pata nahi. Jab start kia toh zor se awaaz aayi aur abhi chalu nahi ho raha hain….” I said wiping of the sweat in forehead.

“Koi tension mat lo aap. Mere paas bhi bullet hain aur main Junagadh main ache mechanic ko jaanta hoon. Abhi bechta hoon aapke paas….” He said while I took a deep breath.

Called up the mechanic who said he will come in 15 Mins and I had nothing to do till he arrived. Meanwhile another guy neatly dressed pitched in and started a casual conversation.

“Aap kya kaam karte ho?”

“Software ki naukri karta hoon Bangalore main….” I replied examining my bike once again.

“Software matlab website vagera karte ho?”

“Haan….”

“Mujhe bhi apni business ke liye ek website banana hain. Aap mere madat karoge????”

‘Man! First of all am stuck here with my bike refusing to start and in between you want me to help with Web development?’ I scolded him in myself and nodded with a smile. In the mean time mechanic came and I explained him in brief about the issue and he checked the Spark Plug which was perfect. He examined the bike for a while and said,

“Kuch nahi hain. Bus do minute main aapki gaadi chalu ho jayega…. Koi tension nahi hain….” He said with full assurance which took me for a surprise.

In just 2 Mins, the beast got back to its life thumping favorably. ‘Oh god! Am saved’ I uttered taking a deep breath.

“Kya hua tha????” I asked with surprise.

“Carburetor ka valve loose ho gaya tha. Abhi tight kar liya hain…. Ab koi dikkat nahi hain….” He said and left with a smile.

With time running faster, I geared up quickly and got out towards Sasan Gir.

“Bangalore???” A voice came in from back while taking a turn in circle.

“Yes” I replied on the move.

“Bike trip?” A middle aged person asked again.

‘No! I am on a cycle trip.’ I wanted to say for his idiotic question.

“Bahut badiya. Arre aao bhai. Ek chai peeyenge….” He invited as if I was his bitchda hua bhai J.

I said I am getting late and moved on towards my destination. Soon after quitting Junagadh, I was welcomed by agricultural fields with lush green cultivation all over. Road was in good condition and I was fully enjoying the feeling of getting closer to the kingdom of legend. Crossed Mendarda riding slowly and as I was nearing Gir, saw a board with display ‘Welcome to the home of Asiatic Lion’ and was virtually jumping out of joy seeing it. ‘Hell yes! I am in Gir….’ I patted on my own back and moved on. 

Beast entering the legends territory!

Final few Kms before Sasan village was part of the jungle I could feel how dense it would be.

The wild nature!

A stream that plays key role in eco system....

Reached Hotel Umang and owner welcomed me with a smile and asked what had gone wrong with bike.

“Aap pehle ek kaam karo. Safari ke liye jaake line main kade raho. Ticket mila toh teek hain. Agar nahi mila toh main kisi ke saat adjust karva dunga…. Matlab aap kisi ke saat share karke jaa sakte ho….”

I realized what was waiting for me soon after he said it. With no option and safari was a must to be done, rushed to Gir safari booking office which was about half a Km away from my stay.

Gir safari booking office

Guides having gala time....

It was about 12:00 PM by then and soon after I entered the office I got assurance that I cannot get the ticket looking at the crowd gathered L. Hoping against hope, got into a big line of tourists who were as clueless as me on getting their tickets for the afternoon safari. Now the only option that was left with me was to do some jugaad and go on a sharing basis. While waiting, managed to check with few people and finally adjusted myself with a bunch of college students who agreed to take me along with them if they get ticket. As they were standing little ahead of me in line, I quit the chaotic queue after their assurance of taking me along. It was around lunch time by then and had a quick lunch right opposite to the booking office and got back to the reception centre. After patiently waiting for about an hour, listening to the tourists blaming on the current process of giving tickets, finally forest officials came and gave 36 application forms which meant there can be only 36 jeeps that can do safari against the usual 23 permits. The reason for extra 13 permits was it was Wednesday and Devalia Park was closed for tourists.

Soon after forms were distributed, the college bunch with whom I had stuck my deal also failed to get the form which meant I had very less time to find someone who has the permit and who can take me along. After a lot of rattle, managed to catch hold of a small family with a little kid who agreed to take me along. Soon, 2 old ladies came and requested the family to take them along as well for which the Marathi speaking family agreed right away. ‘Finally I managed to make some arrangements and I will enter the king’s den….’ I said to myself with pride.

With a quick process of assigning the guide and driver, we all got into our jeep.

“Aap ke paas camera hain na. Toh aap aage aao. Acha photo milega….” The guide said as I was getting into back seat.

‘Wow! This is icing on the cake’ I said happily getting in front seat next to driver Jameel.

The jeep moved on, guide handed over the permit copy to forest official at check post and we were now officially in the jungle looking for king.

Welcome to the Jungle....

“Hamara route 4 aur 7 hain. Iss route main dikne ka chance zyada hain…. Lekin koi guarantee nahi hain.…” Guide started giving us instructions that we should follow in the forest limits.

The initial hour was just spent over with guide talking in general about Gir forest, the head count of male and female Lions, Deer’s, Langoor’s, Peacock’s and other wild animals etc.

“Waha joh gaav le log aise kulke goom rahe hain, unko sher attack nahi karega kya?” I asked Jameel as guide was sitting in last row answering to the questions fired by old ladies.

“Lion joh hain, man eater nahi hain. Arre woh toh jungle ka raja hain. Jab tak aap usse pareshan nahi karoge, woh aapko kuch nahi karega…. Ha! Lekin Leopard attack zarur karega par bachho ko karega. Bado ko nahi…. Abhi kuch din pehle Leopard ne ek gaav ke bachhe ko uta ke gaya…. Paanch saal ka bachha tha….” Jameel poured information while concentrating on offroad track.

I will not pose for you!

Please do not disturb me

I was getting little upset as the time was running fast and we were not even close to any hint of finding Lion. After a while, reached Kamleshwar Dam where guide told us to get down and relax for a while going to view point from where one can get aerial view of Gir National Park.

“Woh jo kaala sa ek line ki tarah dik raha hain na, woh crocodile hain….” Jameel said confidently and I really could not believe it, but agreed to him after I clicked it using my telephoto lens.

“Arre humko sab dikta hain. Hamara kaan aur aak bahut tez rakna padta hain….” Jameel said proudly J.

Kamleshwar Dam....

Black and White Kingfisher hunting for food

Can you spot the crocodile?

After spending some time watching the views around, we continued our Jungle trial hoping to see the King before the safari ends. Spotted Deer’s were visible all over the track and it was nothing great for us as we were curious about the King now. 

Fully grown Samba Deer!

Antelope filling its appetite

Suddenly, Jameel said,

“Waha hain sher. Pakka lik ke deta hoon aapko….” and I was jumping out joy to see the legend as he took a right turn on track.

There were about 10 forest guards standing with a stick in hand and there was another jeep standing ahead of us watching the legend in its kingdom.

After a short wait, the jeep ahead of us gave us the way and what a moment is was I must say.

A fully grown male Lion was lying under a tree shade ignoring the rest of the world. Am sure the old aunties in our jeep might have felt like they were in 30’s looking at Lion J. We were so proud and satisfied to see him. 

Alas! He is sleeping out there....

Without wasting much time, I gave full work to my camera as one of the forest guard came close by and said,

“Photo nikala aapne?”

“Nikala hain. Par uska sar kaha hain pata nahi chal raha hain….” I replied with my eyes on view finder of camera.

Forest guard understood my concern and walked few steps close to Lion just to wake him up so that I could capture him clearly.

‘Wow man! This is freaking awesome. What a moment, what a pride, what a glory, what an attitude….’ I went on praising in mind while being a shutter bug physically.

What a royal sighting JJJ

He just wants to sleep doing nothing!

After spending quality time and considering the tourists lined up behind us, we gave them a way and moved ahead on the track.

“Yeh poora jungle uske hisaab se chal ta hain. Woh toh jungle ka raja hain….” Jameel whispered being proud.

“Uss sher ka naam kya hain????” I asked for curiosity.

“Yaha pe hum kisi sher ko naam nahi rakhe hain….” Jameel replied casually.

While on our way back to the forest entry, Jameel suddenly stopped the jeep and took reverse eagerly looking out for something. After couple of efforts, he said,

“Maine Leopard ko dekha. Che! Abhi nikal gaya…. Abhi tha yaha pe….”

‘Damn shit! Hell man….’ I banged my head for missing the chance L.

While moving ahead, I screamed,

“Wild Boar…. Wild Boar….” As I saw few Wild Boars rushing into the bushes, but could not capture them clearly as I was late L.

Wild boars hiding behind bushes

It was by 6:30 PM Jameel dropped us at booking office and our safari came to an end but with successful attempt. All of us were happy that safari went on well with great sighting. I thanked the family for taking me along, paid them the shared amount, thanked Jameel and driver for making our safari a success and moved out of booking office taking my bike. As I wanted to celebrate the moment and day, I grabbed 2 plates of chat nearby and decided to ride outside the village in pitch darkness. As I was riding little outside the village, I could not take the cold and got back to lodge with no plans to execute. After resting for a while, had dinner outside and got inside my blanket with feel of accomplishment J.

Day-15 | 08-January-2015 | Sasan Gir-Diu-Bhavnagar | 329 Kms | 5089 Kms

With the sighting of yesterday’s king virtually in front of me, woke up at 3:00 AM in order to stand in queue for morning safari permit. Lodge owner had suggested I go very early by 2:30 AM to booking office and stand in queue to make sure I get the permit. Started my bike and directly to booking office in a freezing condition only to find that there were already about 15 heads standing in line and they were decently queued up. With no option, got back on the queue as 17th person while someone from front of the queue came with a hand written sheet of paper in which he was maintaining the names of the people standing in queue. As the number of permits that will be issued were less at about 15, I was sure I would not get any safari in the morning being at this place. Hence ventured ahead just to try my luck with sharing basis like yesterday. After a lot of chit chats about the situation,

“Aap kitne log ho????” Nikhil who was maintaining the list inquired me casually.

“Akela hoon bhai…. Isi liye toh dek raha hoon agar kisi ke saat ja sakta hoon toh….” I responded with hope.

“Akele ho? Toh phir kyon tension lete ho? Kisi na kisi ke saath adjust ho jayega….” He whispered with confidence.

“Main kal bhi dupahar ke safari me gaya tha. Sher dika tha mujhe nazdeek se….” I said in response for which all the nearby people on queue woke up from their partial sleeps.

After showing them the photo I had taken, Nikhil readily agreed to take me along with him and the deal was struck and I took a deep breath that I would go for a safari now. Nearby tourists poured in some questions about my bike trip as they had seen me coming in bike. With nothing else to do, had a cup of tea to warm myself up and meanwhile gate opened and everyone rushed whoever was in line. After the same procedure like yesterday in filling the form etc, we were assigned our guide and driver who told us to be in gate by 6:15 AM so that we can get in first and not miss the unexpected.

Nikhil suggested I go to his lodge on time and I reached on time taking my camera from room. But Nikhil delayed in coming out which delayed our departure to the jungle.

“Aap toh bahut late aa gaye. Humko pehle jaana chahiye tha….” Guide said with same displeasure as me.

“Dekenge phir bhi chance hain dikne ka….” Guide bounced back with hope as we got into Gypsy.

After the routine entry process, got inside the dark jungle still coping with the little of brightness that was splashing to start the day. Just like previous day, guide gave the safety instructions and rules to be strictly followed inside the park. It was just about 15 Mins of venturing in our route that suddenly we saw a Gypsy standing in front of us and a fully grown male Lion was walking towards us on the track. It was still dark and the only way we saw it walking with glory was with the help of Gypsy head lights.

‘What a start for the day! What a moment! What a royalty and glory! What a beauty….’ It was the moment I was looking for eagerly. Mesmerizing, mind blowing and what not. It was walking with all the attitudes of a king ruling the kingdom. As the Gypsy’s lined up behind us, he got furious and walked right beside me quite fast. I was so close that had I stretched my hand, it would have been in its mouth.

Driver made out that the king was feeling uncomfortable with humans venturing in his land and switched off headlights after a rough scream from forest guard who was walking few Mtrs behind the king. It was just a matter of about 15 Secs but I was sure I would treasure that moment forever in my life. But the bad part being I could not take any photos of its glory as it was dark and I thought it would disturb the king if I use my flash.

Fully grown mail Lion just after it crossed us

As he moved into the bushes, we continued our trail in search of something better.

“Agar sher ab hum par attack kiya toh???” A lady in the Gypsy fired curiously.

“Sher ko dek ke hame pata chalta hain madam ki uska mood kaisa hain…. Waise bhi woh iss tarah attack nahi karta hain madam. Usne agar attack kiya toh bhi aapka poora zimmedaari hum par hota hain….” Guide replied patiently.

As we tried our luck, the jungle got illuminated by nature as guide said now there are less hopes as the king would go into the bushes and rest throughout the day. The rest of the journey was about watching the usual Nilgai, Spotted Deers, Langurs, Owl, Peacock etc. 

Very innocent pose

Enjoying the misty morning....

Can you spot something?

He was hyper active....

It was by 9:30 AM that we were back to booking office after a life time gift. Thanked Nikhil, guide and driver and got back to room after a swift bite with 100% sighting in both safaris. 

As I had a long day forward, checked out Hotel Umang and was on road to Diu which was my next spot to visit. The road was perfectly smooth to enjoy the day cherishing the moments I had experienced few hours back and I was virtually inside jungle while physically being on road. Crossed Talala and Kodinar pushing myself a bit as I had to cover close to 200 Kms before I could call it an end.

Diu welcomed me with wide roads, very clean township with cozy ambience. 

Diu welcomes us!

Without asking anyone for directions, got directly to Diu Fort and parked my loaded bike hoping to see my luggage back in some time. The fort was placed adjacent to the ocean which reminded me of visiting many such forts during my previous Konkan saga. I had less time in hand to explore in depth and hence was walking quite fast covering spots inside the fort like armor room, view point, a church etc.

Diu Fort next to ocean!

I heard it is central jail. Is it?

Inside the fort

Cozy Diu as seen from Fort!

Some Armory at display

All the monuments exhibited the Portuguese architecture in style which was the flavor of the fort. After quickly visiting them all, walked all the way till lighthouse from where the view of gigantic ocean was awe-inspiring. As I could also get the aerial view of the fort from lighthouse, spent some quality time watching the ruins of the fort and doing nothing imagining how the fort would have been during its functional age.

The customary light house

Scenic view from light house

It was time for me to move on and I geared up after seizing a tender coconut outside the fort. Getting out of Diu was as easy as it was in getting in and was on cruise mode again heading towards Bhavnagar. After riding for a while, took lunch break and got back to road without wasting much of my precious time. Road was good except for few rugged patches in middle of nowhere which helped me keeping myself active and awake. With no much activity on road, munched miles non-stop to Bhavnagar just before dark and called up the budget lodge I had shortlisted to stay. City was impressively developed once again against my expectation and as I dealt with traffic towards my stay, saw a Royal Enfield showroom and thought to get the bikes oil changed as it had cloaked 5000 Kms in this trip.

“Engine oil change karna hain. Aur thoda dekna sab kuch teek hain ya nahin….”  I uttered parking my bike inside service center. 

The service guys were very helpful and were quick in taking up the job and handed over a glass of soft drink. Meanwhile met a guy who introduced himself as national RE rider and shared his recent biking expeditions while I shared about my ongoing trip in short. The RE guys took some time in making sure things are in place and I was just watching the work being done on my beast. It was dark by the time they delivered the bike after a rapid wash and I rode to my stay and crashed after a quick dinner.

Day-16 | 09-January-2015 | Bhavnagar-Lothal-Navsari | 437 Kms | 5526 Kms

It was yet another back burning long day for me as I had planned to reach Surat by evening. With nothing planned to visit in Bhavnagar, bid bye to the city and was on SH-6 towards Ahmadabad riding in early morning foggy and blustery weather. With no much traffic apart from trucks plying around, it was appealing moment I was enjoying to the max. The road was pretty straight with desolate landscape all around which made me think if I am back to Rann. Gave a butt break after about 80 odd Kms and that’s when I observed that the engine oil is being leaked a lot from engine cap. ‘Shit! Not again wasting time in RE’ I said knowing that I will have to visit it in Vadodara.

Blissful ride towards Lothal!

From my past few years of riding RE, I had learnt a lesson that not to worry for such issues when in RE and that’s exactly what I followed now. I did not bother much about leakage and rode straight to Lothal by 9:30 AM negotiating the goats and cattle’s near few villages on the way.

Lothal was another Harappan hub during their days and now it was an ASI site with the ruins being preserved to the best of ASI’s care. As it was Friday, the museum was closed and moreover, even I was not keen on visiting it. Parked the beast and went in along with a 2 bus full of school kids with few care takers battling to supervise the kids. The excavation site welcomed me with a huge dock for the water storage which looked like swimming pool J. 

Huge Dock at the entrance

Then on it was Acropolis which was very neatly maintained by ASI. As I was stepping into a ruin, the ASI staff in charge whispered, 

“Abhi upar mat anna. Varna bachhe bhi chadkar aayenge….” For which I obliged without second thought.

Moved ahead giving my camera the maximum work and headed into Lower Town which was very next to the Acropolis.

Upper town of Harappans!

Harappans ruins....

After capturing the whole region in my lens, got back on wheels and rode straight towards Vadodara as I knew RE guys would consume good amount of time in fixing the oil leak. Initial few Kms of Vataman-Tarapur highway was unappealing with quite a lot of potholes that would hit hard while on a good speed but it did not last for long J. Riding quite fast between barren landscapes, reached populated Borsad and spent about 15 Mins waiting at the railway cross. Soon after the gates were opened commuters rushed from every possible space they could sneak in just like in any other place in India J. With all these funny incidents, reached Vadodara after a little of confusion about how to enter the city at outskirts. Once in city, looked  for a RE showroom with the hand  book I was carrying along and found one in Old Padra Road very close to where I was. After enquiring for a while got into the showroom and briefed the issue with attendant.

“Aap ek kaam karo.Yaha baju wali galli me jaoge toh hamara service center milega Akota road main. Waha aap gaadi teek karva sakte ho….”

I insisted him to come along as I was not sure of the route he was talking about and after a while, he came along to show me the service center. As soon as I showed the mechanic about the oil leak that was taking place from top of engine, the mechanic confirmed that the issue was with misplacing of the engine cap. As it was their lunch break, they insisted me to come after 2:00 PM having my lunch and they would immediately work on my bike. With a hunger taking toll over me, went straight to Sasuma Restaurant and grabbed a heavy Gujarati Thali and got back to service center. The mechanic took the bike in after unloading it and began working on the issue as I took a small nap in waiting longue.

After a while, they washed the bike and handed it over me for a test ride which confirmed everything was in condition. I thanked them for their quick action, and geared up to cover as much as possible with the decision to skip Surat sightseeing. But before I bid bye to Vadodara, thought to visit Suresh’s tea stall and sip a cup of cardamom tea.

“Namaskar, kaisa raha trip????” Suresh greeted with a hand shake.

After silently sipping 2 cups of tea watching college girls smoking with glory, bid bye to Suresh and moved on towards journey back home. As I was quite aware of the route in Vadodara, it did not take much time for me to get out of it and soon was on smooth NH-8 heading south. As expected, the truck traffic was making sure I breakdown my speed constantly but I was still able to maintain a good pace till Baruch where there was huge traffic Jam in the flyover itself. ‘Shit! This will kill my precious time….’ I said quite frustrated and took the service road only to realize that even it was jammed L. Now with no other alternative, tried my best to sneak in requesting few truck drivers who let me go with a smile. Crossed the flyover but the jam did not seem to end and it was till my eyes could see it. I had planned to cross over Surat but with this mad traffic jam, I was sure of not even crossing Surat. Time was running out fast and Sun was planning to close his account for the day but I still had to cover good distance before I can call it an end. Like many two wheelers, even I tried my best to sneak in every possible space in front of me but the jam did not seem to be getting over at all. Slowly and cautiously I took turn after turn between heavily loaded trucks in an effort to move ahead and road for about 4-5 Kms before I landed in front of Sardar Bridge over Narmada river and that’s when I came to know the root cause of such a massive traffic jam. Our side of the bridge was under maintenance and hence traffic cops were letting only light vehicles in that bridge making sure heavy and multi axle vehicles are passed through bridge meant for opposite moving vehicles. As I got into the old bridge under maintenance I was spell bound to see that the concrete slabs between pillars very moving up and down drastically. With a brave heart, stopped midway in bridge to record a small video of it and rapidly moved ahead to cross the bridge as soon as possible.

Once on the main land, stopped the bike and turned back as I was not able to believe myself what I had seen few Mins ago. As I moved on, I could see that all vehicles in opposite side were lined up and this lineup ended up to about 10 Kms. ‘God save them….’ I thought and ripped to the max I could with an intension to cover up the time wasted in the mess.

Massive traffic jam in Bharuch

Last leg of the ride was more like a speed run zig-zagging over the trucks running in different lanes and by 7:30 PM, I crossed Surat and landed in Navsari for the day. Was delighted that in spite of wasting good amount of time in traffic jam in Baruch, I finally made sure I crossed Surat and moved ahead.

With the daylong tiring ride I had been through, I did not had energy to look for a budget stay and settled in Supreme Hotel beside NH-8 costing 950/- Rs with AC. Got fresh and rushed to the restaurant beside lodge to grab my dinner and meanwhile called Ravi in Pune with my plan to cover Saputara for tomorrow. Ravi suggested not to take Nashik-Pune highway as it is madly over crowded throughout the day. With the fear of another big day dealing with traffic, I made up my mind to skip Saputara and keep it for next time and decided to take usual Mumbai route to reach Pune at the earliest and closed the account of my long tiring day.

Day-17 | 10-January-2015 | Navsari-Pune | 430 Kms | 5956 Kms

Main and only agenda for the day was to reach Pune by lunch as I had expelled the plan of Saputara yesterday. As it was a matter of some 350 odd Kms to Pune, I was certain of reaching by 2:00 PM and hence detached myself from cozy bed after a lot of internal fight between mind and heart. Had a quick bath and went to restaurant next door to grab Onion Uttapam and was delighted to have it as part of my breakfast. The reason being I was quite exhausted by Poha’s and Fafda’s from few weeks and was badly wanting to get my comfortable food. With a morning bike contentedly settling within, loaded the beast and was in cruise mode tanking up the fuel.

The highway had already got busy with load carriers plying recklessly and I was overtaking them relentlessly as I wanted to cover as much as I can before I get hitched by Sun over my head. Had set myself a time limit of reaching Ghodbundar by 12:00 PM and was cruising accordingly at 90’s. Just before Vapi when I had covered good 90 odd Kms in 70 Mins and while crossing a toll, suddenly felt my bike wobbling to the core. Looked at the rear tire and as I had guessed it, it had gone flat. ‘There you go! This was the only missing thing in the trip’ I said pulling my bike back.

“Bhayya, yaha puncture ki dukaan kaha hain???” I questioned the auto drivers standing beside for which they showed me the shop just few steps behind.

‘I am saved!’ I said pulling my bike back and taking it to the shop. Rested the damaged beast in center stand and turned the rear tire only to see a big iron pieceof around about 0.5 Cms wide being stuck onto the tire.

Trip is not complete without this drama....

Puncture guy soon got onto my work and removed the tire and plucked out the iron piece and I was stunned to see that it had pierced the tire and tube deeply for about 4 Cms.

He fell is love with rear tire....

“Bahut gehra puncture hua hain. Pehle tire ko patch daalna padega aur phir tube ko….” He suggested for which I readily agreed after confirming about its durability couple of times.

“Baad main koi takleef nahi hoga na???” I kept on hitting this question over him but he was tolerant enough to boost my confidence every time.

The tire needs a patch too L

While working my tire, we got into a casual conversation about where I had been to, his work etc.

“Main pehle, 1990 main aaya tha yaha. Mujhe achha nahi laga. Iss liye vapas Kerala gaya. Phir mere bhai ne vapas bech diya mujhe. Tab se yahi pe laga hoon…. Abhi aap teen saal baad aana. Yaha peh aat lane a super speed highway banega….” He continued without a break.

Having done with patching up the tire, I insisted him to put a new tube he had in his store and also get me the puncture fixed for existing tube so that I can use it as backup. His initial investigation revealed there are 2 holes in the tube which he fixed and I insisted him to check for any other holes once again with suspicion. When he cross checked after blowing air and immersing in water, he found that there was another small hole and he fixed it again and handed over to me after cross verification. All these process took good 1.5 Hrs from my day and I got back in speed mode handing him 550/- Rs. Crossed Vapi and soon after I entered Maharastra, stopped for a minute only to turn back and say ‘You are indeed Vibrant Gujarat! Loved all that you offered me….’

From then on, it was a speed race all the way till Mumbai without even a butt break as I had to cover up the time wasted in fixing the flat tire. In middle isolated stretch, once again felt like bike was wobbling to the full and stopped to check the tires but thankfully found nothing wrong with air pressure etc. few years back while was on my way back from Rajasthan, crossing Mumbai was a big task as I was not sure of the route but now, I was well versed with those roads and it was just like riding from office to home J. However, crossing Mumbai was time consuming task due to the traffic between Ghodbundar and Thane West. Crossing Mumbra Ghat section was another task itself followed by negotiating the traffic all the way till Panvel.

Just after crossing Panvel, there came a junction which said ‘Alibaug àXX Kms’ which reminded me of my nomadic Konkan escapade. With the hunger taking full control over my mind and heart seeking immediate action, continued towards Lonavala enjoying the twisties along with a stretch of road where I got to ride in express highway. While at Lonavala, Hotel RamaKrishna was my unanimous option for food every time I crossed that road and this time it was no different. Grabbed Onion Uttappam and Masala Dosa followed by Lemon juice which was much below the standard and geared up for the last leg while other tourists were hogging onto their food.

Reached Pune and called up Ravi to come to the closest point and straight to his house after a cup of tea close by.

“Yencha ittundu ye trip? (How was the trip?)” Asked Ravi as we sipped our tea.

“Super ye…. Edde experience mare…. (Super it was. Very nice experience….)” I replied with full satisfaction.

Priyanka welcomed me delightfully and had another round of tea briefing them about my trip.

As it was close to 6:30 PM and I had plans to visit few of my cousin’s place, got fresh and got ready to give them a surprise visit. I could not miss out on visiting cousins this time as I had missed visiting them last few times and I did not want it to drag further. With the help of GPS, reached my cousins house in Pashan near NCL and they were taken for a surprise by my visit. After spending a quality time talking to them all with quick snacks and meeting the little kids got back to another cousins house in Pimple Gurav in about 20 Mins. All thanks to my mobile GPS. After spending some time there and convincing sister that I am full and do not want anything to eat, got back to Ravi’s house and crashed after a short dinner in spite of loaded appetite with Shivneri for tomorrow in Ravi’s car.

Day-18 | 11-January-2015 | Pune-Shivneri-Pune (In Car) | 0 Kms | 5956 Kms

It was planned to leave as early as possible to Shivneri but Priyanka was sure we would not leave before 8:00 AM and she happened to be right. Vivek took a while to come on time and a short exciting story of his job change delayed our schedule. As I was still not out of yesterdays overloading food and was feeling uncomfortable, had 2 glasses of Eno assuming it would dissolve everything making me feel perfect. Just before departing to our excursion, I felt like toilet was calling me urgently and ran back to the house to finish unexpected job. I sensed something has gone wrong and hence carriedEldoper tablet from my medical kit in case of emergency. Quickly finishing my job got back on rear seat with Ravi on wheels and we set out in Nashik road. By then I was feeling little weak and dehydrated and the reason behind it was I as suffering from Dysentery L. Ravi and Vivek were mostly involved in discussing about personal life, Vivek’s job and other stuff while I was making the maximum use of rear seat stretching my legs and trying to make myself comfortable.Stopped for breakfast after Chakan and I had very important job to complete before breakfast and ran in search of toilet once again with few tissue papers.Had Idli with Sambar which did not go well.

“Eereg aayijjada vapas poi maare…. (If you are not ok, then let’s head back. No issues on that….)” Ravi whispered while Vivek was pitying in my situation.

With not willing to head back at any cost, continued our journey towards Narayangaon and after a little of negotiation in busy narrow streets, we were off towards Shivneri. Ravi was not keen on this excursion as it was just steps we had to climb up but considering my situation, they felt Shivneri is the safe bet. Parked our car and started the climb slowly after quickly making an entry in the register at the entrance. I was feeling tired quite fast but to deviate my concentration, took out my camera to click the snaps of surroundings. The fort had about 7 gates and at few gates, maintenance work was in progress. 

Climbing Shivneri Fort

One of the many Fort doors

As we climbed up, the vista around was getting more and more captivating.  After about 50 Mins and with a help of Lemon juice we had midway, made it to the top at considerably faster pace than I had assumed it to be.

Vista around

Looks artificial but it's natural J

Kulup gate!

Its so charming and colorful

Adjecent hills zoomed out!

As I was feeling drained out, I sat in a bench to take some rest before heading out and I was soon was joined by Ravi and Vivek. As we were resting for a while, a bunch of school kids came and requested to take a small quiz on Shivaji Maharaj.

“We are outsiders. He is localite. You can ask any question to him….” Ravi said pointing to Vivek with a depraved smile J.

The little students started firing questions one after the other but we failed to answer most of them with Vivek succeeding in just few questions. With my tummy feeling disturbed once again, we moved ahead towards the birth place of Shivaji Maharaj and Badami Lake. The crowd was quite disturbing for our excursion but we had no control over it.

Inside Shivneri Fort!

Would love to spend whole day just watching them out

A Badami Lake inside Fort

This is where Shivaji Maharaj was born!

At last one pic of mine J

A simple monument....

After spending quality time taking photos and witnessing the vista around, we walked back to parking slowly along with the crowd. I was badly waiting to get inside the car and stretch myself as I was dead tired due to dehydration. By the time we exited Shivneri, it was already around 2:00 PM and I was too hungry and hence took a small nap while Ravi and Vivek drove ahead chit chatting about verity of topics.

At around 3:30 PM, we stopped for lunch where once again I ran in search of toilet before anything else. Came back tired and ordered Curd rice only to leave it as it was horrible to my tasteless tongue. Unwilling to leave my stomach empty, had Plain Dosa and got back on wheels straight to home. Back in home, ran to toilet once again helplessly L. The Dysentery had taken all my energy out and I was feeling just like starving kid with no energy to even stand firmly. With nothing else to do for the day and temperate steadily raising up in body, I sensed I might get hit by fever and covered myself with a blanket and spent my evening sharing the horrible day I had been through and watching TV. Sensing my weakness, Ravi and Priyanka suggested me not to push myself and better take one full day rest tomorrow and to start back home once I feel confident. Had a simple dinner of Rice and Dal and crashed with Dolo 650 tablet and hoping to be perfect tomorrow.

Day-19 | 12-January-2015 | In Pune | 0 Kms | 5956 Kms

Woke up in the morning only to realize that the fever had not let me free still and I had to spend whole day in bed L. Ravi woke up enquiring about my health only to conclude that I take full rest in Pune today doing nothing. Had tea cursing my situation and chatting with Ravi and meanwhile Priyanka woke up saying,

“Good morning! How are you today?”

As it was a week start, Ravi got ready to office against his will like any other person J. In short time, Ravi left to work saying,

“Bye! Bayyag tikkuga. Eer rest deppule maere….(Bye! See you in the evening. You take rest….)”

Priyanka had her afternoon shift at work and she took special care of me by preparing Red rice Ganji which is one of the safe food during body imbalance. She also made sure to prepare curry and rice so that I can have them as part of lunch. After breakfast, had Dolo 650 and crashed in bed hoping against hope to wake up confidently.

It was around 12:00 PM when I opened my eyes hearing some sound from outside. Walked out to Hall only to see Priyanka grabbing her quick bite before leaving to work.

“How are you feeling now?” She enquired giving her mouth and hand a full work.

“Much much better….” I replied as I landed myself in sofa.

In no time, she locked the door and left to her work and I had absolutely no plans for the rest of the day and was thinking hard to spend time till evening. Had lunch when the time arrived and spent time lazing around watching TV, reading news paper etc. Ravi came back from another day at work and after feeling happy about my health, he went out for his Tabla class after a glass of tea. By evening, I was feeling perfectly normal and was confident to head back home by tomorrow and packed little stuff so that I would save some time for tomorrow. Crashed after dinner feeling happy about my health getting back to normal.

Day-20 | 13-January-2015 | Pune-Hubli | 515 Kms | 6471 Kms

It was a big day for me as I had to head south stretching myself to the best. Had a cup of tea along with Ravi and left to my cousin’s house in Old Pune Mumbai highway. Tanked up the fuel in Shell and after playing around with GPS, reached cousin’s house and Sis-in-law was delighted to see me after a long time. Brother had left to work early morning and kids had gone to school. As I had met them after a long, Sis-in-law and I got busy chit chatting on verity of topics like brothers work, her music class, my work, dad’s health, my road trip, their kid’s education etc. She had prepared Idli to make sure I do not eat anything with oil and spoil my health again. She insisted I take few Idli’s parcel to have it midway but I thanked her for caring so much and flew back to Ravi’s house thinking how far I can reach before the day ends. 

“Bye Priyanka! And special thanks for all the hospitality and taking care of me so nicely….” I said walking out with my heavy luggage.

It was by 11:45 AM I took Wakad main road to connect myself to NH-4 leading to Bangalore. Traffic was madly flowing in spite of such an off time and I was getting quite arrogant with the traffic as it was delaying my days plan. But with the mindset of reaching as ahead as possible, making my way between the trucks inhaling the smoke from their exhausts, bid bye to Pune passing through new Katraj Tunnel.

‘Bye bye Pune! Will visit you back soon….’ I said as I raised my throttle looking it my RVM’s.

From my onward journey, I was aware of road maintenance work in progress and hence was sure that Pune-Satara stretch would consume a good amount of time. Sun was too harsh but as I had worn mesh jacket, there was enough facility for the air to pass through keeping myself cool from inside J. Midway came Khambatki Ghat where I enjoyed riding in twisties overtaking all the vehicles that I came across. It was really a charming moment tilting my bike to the max testing my tires to the threshold. Stopped just before Satara in a decent food joint for lunch as it was 1:30 PM by then.

“Bhayya, ek Thali dena….” I placed my order while getting rid of my safety gear.

Just to make sure I am all prepared, checked if I have Eldoper tablet in pocket while satisfying my hungry appetite. Without wasting much of my precious time, geared up for next long run and got back to highway with music engaging myself making sure I do not lose my cool negotiating the mad Satara traffic. Crossed Satara without any difficulty just by cruising on NH-4 and was heading south with good progress in distance. I was virtually lost in the music and panorama around that I realized I am heading home only after a saw a green board which read ‘Bangalore ↑ 687 Kms’. The landscape was getting shifted towards huge irrigational fields consisting majorly of Sugar cane nearing Kolhapur. In addition to the vista and music, even the road condition played a key role in my smooth sailing with the majority of stretches being laid in concrete. As I was enjoying my ride, thanked A B Vajpayee for such a wondering project of Golden quadrilateral connecting Bangalore to north. Kolhapur welcomed me with nothing apart from traffic but I had no way to get rid of it and also I thought to get my bike checked quickly for the wobbling feel I was experiencing since Pune.

I had visited RE service center during my Ladakh trip and I was aware of the road to it and hence reached service center easily.

“Bhayya, bahut wobbling ho raha hain yaar. Thoda jaldi dek lena. Mujhe aage Bangalore jaana hain abhi….”

RE guys, quickly filled the job card and took my bike in after unloading my luggage and mechanics got over it while I was watching them work from waiting room.

“Aapka disk break ka pad gaya hain. Naya dalna padega….” Supervisor said in a hurry.

“Kitna time lagega?” I checked looking at wrist watch.

“Kum se kum ded ganta lagega….”

I insisted to ignore it after he confirmed it can come over till I reach Bangalore but warned me to change soon after I reach Bangalore for which I obliged with a smile. Thanked them and got back on saddle loading my heavy saddle bags and bid bye to Kolhapur zig-zagging through local commuters on bike and was delighted to see the boards in Kannada soon after I crossed Kagal.

‘Thank god! Now I can have Idli, Vada, Dosa, Kara Bath……’ My mind was recollecting every breakfast item that my state offers as I munched miles ahead reading every board written in Kannada. 

As I was enjoying crossing Belgaum and riding in my own world looking at the familiar landscape around, the beast started jerking a lot hinting me to fill its tank. Thought for a while to stop for tea but then moved ahead thinking of utilizing the tea time to wrap some distance. As it got dark, decided to halt in Hubli for the day and rode last few Kms in dark scolding the high beam vehicles from opposite direction.

Back in Hubli by dark

“Sir!Ondu room idiya? (Sir, is there a vacant room?)” I checked in Hotel Ashoka which is one of the oldest and well known lodges in city.

After enquiring for a while about myself, he handed me the keys assuring about the bike parking in footpath. Got fresh updating my parents about reaching Hubli and headed out for dinner in a place suggested by lodge receptionist. Walked back to room and crashed feeling delighted about sleeping in my home tomorrow J.

Day-21 | 14-January-2015 | Hubli-Bangalore | 446 Kms | 6917 Kms

Woke with full charm in face and with the feeling of being energetic for the long day ahead.

“Sir, Bangalore???” I checked with few police constables who were sipping a hot tea holding local news paper in hand.

Took the road suggested by them and I was welcomed by foggy NH-4. It was 7:30 AM as I checked the time while fuelling up the beast and decided to finish breakfast before I take up a long non-stop speed run. The road continued to be foggy till the sunlight was sturdy enough to evaporate the fog and making the visibility very clear for commuters. It was a dry landscape around as I crossed town after town with my speedo meter needle constantly sliding between 90 and 100. As I saw the reducing distance to Bangalore, I was feeling more and more excited to reach before lunch and raised throttle with every milestone to Bangalore. Initially had thought to take break for every 100 Kms but after 100 Kms, I was just feeling like I was on road after a long break and continued further thanking beast for being so indulgent about my excitement.

It was very joyful moment to overtake every truck in a fraction of second escaping the black smoke puked by their exhaust valves.Crossed Haveri, Ranebennur, Harihar, Davanagere, Chitradurga, Hiriyur, Sira all at one go without even breaking out for natures call. The thirst to be in Bangalore before lunch was driving me crazy and it was the main motivation behind my non-stop speed run of 330 Kms before I broke out for fuel just after Tumkur. Crossed the toll before I took Nelamangala-Bangalore express way and I was elated to be officially in Bangalore.

Yupee! Back to Namma Bengaluru JJJJ

Once in the city, reached home with the help of Ring Road with the easy connectivity it offers to my home in BSK.

‘We are back home in single piece safely….’ I recited in myself kissing the beast.

‘One hell of a ride comes to an end and Gujarat subjugated successfully….’ Every part of my mind was chanting it as I climbed the steps of my house in first floor.

Beast taking a deep breath after mammoth ride of 6917 Kms

Epilogue

After a back burning and exciting road trip of 6917 Kms touching the west most part of India, I took a deep breath with the satisfaction of conquering it and alongside I was sure of my family taking the similar deep breath on my news of safe arrival back home. ‘Man o man! Did I just do it?’ I was thinking as the entire trip of Long way west flew in front of my eyes in no time.

The speed run to Pune, watching Wild Ass and Flamingoes having fun, exploring Harappan site, the life time ride to Indo-Pak border, experiencing the White Desert which looks similar to heaven with natures gift, witnessing the enormity of Rann, riding to the west most tip of India, visiting the holy places of Dwarka and Somnath, facing the roaring glorious Asiatic Male Lion in its natural habitat, the moment my beast got punctured etc were all running in my mind simultaneously as I flipped through TV channels lying in sofa.

The world might be thinking I am one mad idiot to do all this crazy stuff in life but for me, it was a life time nomadic expedition to one of the stirring state of India. Came out and looked at the beast parked and it winked me saying,

‘Common bro!Let’s hit the road once again….’ Looking as fresh as I was.

Hence the ‘Journey continues!!!!JJJJ’ in my incredible country.

Trip Map